- 1,029
- Central US
- Football67611
I was looking for what it would be and couldn't find anything. When turning the wheel feels stressed and hard to turn. I'm tinkering with it, I will let you know.
Patch Release Notes and Discussion Thread
- Thread starter DrJustice
- 1,286 comments
- 101,994 views
- 3,265
- London
- Mauler_77
So far I am happy with the new tyres. I had to increase the pressure from what I had in 7.0 as they were overheating in 8.0, so that's good, and unlike 6.0 they didn't cook themselves within a few laps, so that's good for me too. Haven't noticed any FFB issues, all seems to work as normal, and we can finally launch the game and see a DLC car on the screen instead of that LMP car that was always there before.
But 3 crashes in 2 days leaves a nasty taste in my mouth.
But 3 crashes in 2 days leaves a nasty taste in my mouth.
- 796
- Colorado
- ONESPACE
I didn't see or feel anything with the Aston V12 after 8.0, but crashing to blue screen when leading in a league race just wants to make me snap this disc in half. lol.
I did hear about some guys getting froze in the pits while making a pit strategy, these guys are very fast and in a Euro league, they ended up getting DNF's when they were running in P2 and P3. Just food for thought, maybe make pit strategy before hand.
This was after 8.0
On another note, love this saying.
I did hear about some guys getting froze in the pits while making a pit strategy, these guys are very fast and in a Euro league, they ended up getting DNF's when they were running in P2 and P3. Just food for thought, maybe make pit strategy before hand.
This was after 8.0
On another note, love this saying.
dopedog
(Banned)
- 880
- United Kingdom
Don't be fooled that them changing patch 6 was anything to do with console users or pad users, they did it because its SMS and they messed up patch 6, then patch 7 and now patch 8 seems brought new issues for tyres...oh dear.
All this messing about with tyres and patch 8 contains up coming DLC with drift cars...coincidence?
- 3,591
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Had a go with patch 8.0 on PC, a variety of GT cars. Grip levels seemed back to what I'd expect, FFB feels quite progressive. Very playable like this.
I didn't have any crashes or find any bugs. Oh, and pCARS still looks amazing with all settings on Ultra. Easy to forget if you don't play for a few weeks due to the v7.0 tyre model
I didn't have any crashes or find any bugs. Oh, and pCARS still looks amazing with all settings on Ultra. Easy to forget if you don't play for a few weeks due to the v7.0 tyre model
- 2,555
- New Zealand
- GTP_Animera
- Bleh
We just had our Friday Night league race, Project Cars Drivers Club.
There were 16 of us in Ford Mk IV's at Nurburgring Sprint and it was great to hear people saying that they had overheating tyres because of too low tyre pressures, really bad tyre wear because of spinning or badly setup pit strategies.
It was an awesome 1 hour race!
Patch 8 has put a lot right again.
There were 16 of us in Ford Mk IV's at Nurburgring Sprint and it was great to hear people saying that they had overheating tyres because of too low tyre pressures, really bad tyre wear because of spinning or badly setup pit strategies.
It was an awesome 1 hour race!
Patch 8 has put a lot right again.
- 360
- jakarta
- Y_bear_
Just lower you ffb and add mz smoothing...
- 2,810
- Tasmania, AU
- stigsdaddy
He's talking specifically about the wheel calibration, not how it behaves on track.
- 1,467
- Gent Ghent Gand
- svenvangent968
When I start the game first thing that I always do is calibrate my wheel , before patch 8.0 it went in a smooth way but now it is harder to turn it .
Thanks for the proposal gtic_ybear but it is only when I calibrate my wheel I have this issue
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mister dog
(Banned)
- 8,396
- Spain
- misterdog
- misterdog7
About the wheel being hard to turn all of a sudden, i had to redo my global FFB settings. Got it working nicely now in combination with Jack Spade's files but my god what an amount of sliders to decode...
Luckily someone posted recommended global FFB settings for my CSR here which i could use as a starting point:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...weaker-Files&p=1106058&viewfull=1#post1106058
For the other wheels i believe recommended settings are linked in Jacks OP.
Luckily someone posted recommended global FFB settings for my CSR here which i could use as a starting point:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...weaker-Files&p=1106058&viewfull=1#post1106058
For the other wheels i believe recommended settings are linked in Jacks OP.
- 3,265
- London
- Mauler_77
Do you mean they were all reset or just that the settings you put in yourself no longer have the desired effect? I've personally not noticed a change in FFB so far.
mister dog
(Banned)
- 8,396
- Spain
- misterdog
- misterdog7
- 796
- Colorado
- ONESPACE
I might have said this before, sorry if I have and you've already tried. When I figured out to not calibrate my T500 to 90° and hold, then preys x, like the menu directions say to do and calibrate to 1080, I haven't had any issues with my wheel since. Sometimes it loses FFB, then its just a unplug and replug. But all Thrustmaster wheels have different calibrations. And I haven't calibrated wheel a long time now, but like you said, I was calibrating wheel every time I turned the game on.
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- 1,467
- Gent Ghent Gand
- svenvangent968
the feeling that I encounter is :
Before patch 8.0 I could put 1 finger in one of the 3 open space/places whit in the wheel that we have whit the T300 RS and could than turn it to the 100 % lock , the wheel stayed there and confirmed whit the cross button than I did the 900° or 1080° all whit a softness from here until Tokio .
Now I need my two hands to turn it because it wants to fight always back to his natural position .
Before patch 8.0 I could put 1 finger in one of the 3 open space/places whit in the wheel that we have whit the T300 RS and could than turn it to the 100 % lock , the wheel stayed there and confirmed whit the cross button than I did the 900° or 1080° all whit a softness from here until Tokio .
Now I need my two hands to turn it because it wants to fight always back to his natural position .
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- 3,265
- London
- Mauler_77
Sounds like I'd better not try to recalibrate my wheel then
- 1,467
- Gent Ghent Gand
- svenvangent968
- 2,810
- Tasmania, AU
- stigsdaddy
FFB hasn't changed at all for me. Using Fanatec CSR, and my own settings. I never go into the wheel calibration thingy, as the wheel is always calibrated fine for me without doing that, and whenever I used to use the in game calibration, it'd bug out the controls. But yeah, as far as the strength or feel while on the road, nothing's changed for me.
Likely this patch has introduced bugs that, as per usual in this game, are a lottery. Some get them, some don't. I'll consider myself lucky lol.
Likely this patch has introduced bugs that, as per usual in this game, are a lottery. Some get them, some don't. I'll consider myself lucky lol.
- 796
- Colorado
- ONESPACE
@svenvangent
This is what i have running after alot off trying and testing, changing and comparing.
FFB Calibration & Settings
Notes
Works on all Thrustmasters.
Mostly default wheel calibration settings.
General FFB strength & Tyre Force 100!!
Turn off all smoothings in FFB Car Setup!!
If your wheel is jerky start adding smoothing on FX and Mz by 10 and max 30.
Wheel Calibration
T80/100 ~> 240°
T150/T300 ~> 900°
T500 ~> 1080°
FFB Strength (found in configuration)
100.00
FFB Calibration
Tire Force
100.00
Per Wheel Movement
0.00
Per Wheel Movement Squared
0.00
Wheel Position Smoothing
0.04
Deadzone Removal Range
0.00
Deadzone Removal Falloff
0.01
Linkage Scale
0.00
Linkage Stiffness
1.00
Linkage Damping
1.00
Relative Adjust Gain
0.98
Relative Adjust Bleed
0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp
0.96
Scoop Knee
0.65
Scoop Reduction
0.15
Soft Clipping (Half Input)
0.00
Soft Clipping (Full Output)
0.00
Menu Spring Strength
0.40
Low Speed Spring Coefficient
0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation
1.00
Steering Gain
0.90
Use ffb settings in car setup per car found here:
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/cars
Dont forget to remove the smoothings in the car setup ffb menu to start with!! ( all 0 ! )
Set respective ffb strength per car higher or lower by increasing or decreasing
1. Master Scale (spindle)
2. SOP Scale (body&sop)
Both settings should always be equal!
Your good to go...
Have fun
Saxo
this might be completely wrong, that just goes to show its been awhile since I've had to calibrate wheel. i must have the degrees backwards. Any ways the list below are not mine, a friend on FaceBook. i turned FFB up to 100 in options menu and sometimes turn master scale up in car settings FFB all the rest i use default.........
This is what i have running after alot off trying and testing, changing and comparing.
FFB Calibration & Settings
Notes
Works on all Thrustmasters.
Mostly default wheel calibration settings.
General FFB strength & Tyre Force 100!!
Turn off all smoothings in FFB Car Setup!!
If your wheel is jerky start adding smoothing on FX and Mz by 10 and max 30.
Wheel Calibration
T80/100 ~> 240°
T150/T300 ~> 900°
T500 ~> 1080°
FFB Strength (found in configuration)
100.00
FFB Calibration
Tire Force
100.00
Per Wheel Movement
0.00
Per Wheel Movement Squared
0.00
Wheel Position Smoothing
0.04
Deadzone Removal Range
0.00
Deadzone Removal Falloff
0.01
Linkage Scale
0.00
Linkage Stiffness
1.00
Linkage Damping
1.00
Relative Adjust Gain
0.98
Relative Adjust Bleed
0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp
0.96
Scoop Knee
0.65
Scoop Reduction
0.15
Soft Clipping (Half Input)
0.00
Soft Clipping (Full Output)
0.00
Menu Spring Strength
0.40
Low Speed Spring Coefficient
0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation
1.00
Steering Gain
0.90
Use ffb settings in car setup per car found here:
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/cars
Dont forget to remove the smoothings in the car setup ffb menu to start with!! ( all 0 ! )
Set respective ffb strength per car higher or lower by increasing or decreasing
1. Master Scale (spindle)
2. SOP Scale (body&sop)
Both settings should always be equal!
Your good to go...
Have fun
Saxo
- 3,265
- London
- Mauler_77
First I'll choose a car then if I like it I'll spend the next couple of weeks tuning it until I'm happy, then I'll spend another 2 or 3 weeks racing it without tweaking much, then move on to something else. Rinse and repeat.
Funny thing is that if I then tune a different car, spend weeks on that too, and then go back to an old car I spent best part of a month happily driving, I find it handles like crap, or at least certainly less good than before, so then I either move on or retune it.
This happens over and over again.
Welcome to my insanity. I hope I'm not alone.
Funny thing is that if I then tune a different car, spend weeks on that too, and then go back to an old car I spent best part of a month happily driving, I find it handles like crap, or at least certainly less good than before, so then I either move on or retune it.
This happens over and over again.
Welcome to my insanity. I hope I'm not alone.
- 1,680
- Chicago, USA
- 3,265
- London
- Mauler_77
Yeah me too. I've learnt a lot these past few months. I'm sure all my old tunes need further work now. One reason why I'm apprehensive about picking up AC in April. Still have so many cars in this game to work on, or even drive for the first time. Back to the drawing board!My long lost twin?!
I consider this sensation as my continued improvement/knowledge of tuning. The insanity is when I have to decide if I should retune that old car.
- 524
- South Carolina
- david_killem_all
dopedog
(Banned)
- 880
- United Kingdom
I have been starting to agree with some folk on official forum who think Jack Spades is a bit overrated. I was at the Autosport show and a guy on the Lotus stand that had the game PCars set up with a motion rig was saying that the SOP and BODY settings are for motion rigs only, now i don't think he was official SMS guy and he may be wrong but he was quite vocal about that, but i admit take this with a pintch of salt until SMS ever tell us what the hell is right /wrong or way off.
I sort of agree, so i no longer use SOP settings at all and it all feels much better for it.
I sort of agree, so i no longer use SOP settings at all and it all feels much better for it.
- 3,265
- London
- Mauler_77
I will admit I've been running my SoP based on the Spades settings and tried the other night with them all on zero and didn't notice a huge difference. Will have a more extensive test soon, but together with the wealth of other settings it's complete madness really.
I was reading the descriptions of all the global FFB sliders in the calibration screens and it's just way too much jibberish for most people. I commend their effort but I don't think SMS needed to go quite so crazy with their FFB settings.
dopedog
(Banned)
- 880
- United Kingdom
- 3,265
- London
- Mauler_77
So I've noticed that if I put all SoP sliders to zero my wheel feels really light, probably because my spindle sliders aren't massively high, so I guess if you run high spindle and no SoP that's similar to medium spindle with medium SoP. I'm just going to leave all mine as they are instead of finding new settings... as they say - I ain't got time for dat!
- 907
- York Virginia
- chilybee
It happens on the PC side. And it does not take weeks. Insanity is the correct word.
That is what I believe from the start. Also may work with transducers that use the signal to emulate sound.
But definitely anything that produces motion. I just cant see anything that a wheel could do with those signals.
Other than perhaps cause spiking.
Polyphony Digital has never explained anything is this area either. I suspect SMS will follow suit.
