RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

  • Thread starter Ridox2JZGTE
  • 5,032 comments
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Ah ha! That leaves Germany or Italy then doesn't it :D
I was guessing it to be that gorgeous looking classic E cat. :banghead:
It was going to be that đź‘Ť, but something came up :banghead: (<that's me for forgetting), and we had a last minute change of plans, poor poor @Ridox2JZGTE , i see @Thorin Cain hasn't wasted his IRL work time to start pestering him with questions :lol:.
 
@TurnLeft The avatar is an EAG selfie, right? :lol: :cheers:

Edit: I like it. Really. đź‘Ť
Can you guess which one is @Thorin Cain ?, in the Difficult car of the month a long long time ago, for every review I did I had a picture of Statler & Woldorf put in the post, in case you don't know they came from the Muppet Show, they were spectators who acted like the finest critics :D, they were just bad :lol:. I had to get rid of the Reggae Monkey, I was starting to behave very strangely :odd:, probably all due to the company I took to do my Life Step Van tune in the April COTM. I was really surprised that @Ridox2JZGTE entered one there, added it to my list and might just try that race you did, I was originally thinking of using it at the Ascari challenge :nervous:, might just do that anyways :lol:.
Oh and glad you like that, I see you're feeling low on the RPM :P.
Picture 13.png
 
That is the torque bias ratio :) 27.5% : 72.5% is indeed 45% ( lock ), so if one wheel spinning and only capable to put down 100 lb ft torque, the other wheel can have up to 263 lb ft torque. The TBR is 2.63:1. This is likely for the drive side, rarely factory set up have more than 3:1 TBR on the overrun.

That is my understanding on the LSD torque bias ratio :) I may be right or wrong :lol:

My God! I just came from a different thread where someone stated that they believed tuning the LSD of cars in GT6 is "easy". I've been playing GT6 since December 2013 and I still have absolutely no idea how to properly setup an LSD to perform efficiently for me. :boggled: :grumpy: :confused: When I apply a tune from Exeter GT Tuning, for example, I do feel comfortable adjusting the DECEL setting. Increase the value if I'm getting all out of shape under deceleration and lower the value if I feel the car is "too stable" and understeering under braking. The other two settings? I don't have a friggin' clue... :dunce: :boggled: :banghead: :grumpy: đź‘Ž
 
My God! I just came from a different thread where someone stated that they believed tuning the LSD of cars in GT6 is "easy". I've been playing GT6 since December 2013 and I still have absolutely no idea how to properly setup an LSD to perform efficiently for me. :boggled: :grumpy: :confused: When I apply a tune from Exeter GT Tuning, for example, I do feel comfortable adjusting the DECEL setting. Increase the value if I'm getting all out of shape under deceleration and lower the value if I feel the car is "too stable" and understeering under braking. The other two settings? I don't have a friggin' clue... :dunce: :boggled: :banghead: :grumpy: đź‘Ž

I will repost the reply in a conversation about the LSD :

"The locking rates in the article linked are actually preload torque or in GT6 referred as initial torque, but considering the way the clutch pack LSD works, the amount of preload also translate to amount of lock possible ( in lbs ).

PosiTrac = open differential with a spring loaded clutches that limit the speed differential between driven axles.
The clutches transfer the torque through the spider gears to help equalize the torque split.
The higher the spring rate the more torque can be transferred across the spider gears.

The easiest for me to say it is for instance 200lbs preload, that means the diff has 200lbs resistance and lock capacity, beyond this 200lb of torque sent into the diff, it will let go and act like open diff if the gears are worn. This is what I understand from clutch pack based LSD that uses spider gears as explained in the Duntov article ( Eaton brand )

Within this amount of torque, the diff will hold both wheel at closer speed ( the Eaton Posi Trac uses spring loaded clutch pack to limit speed differences between wheels ) The spring that "holds" the clutch has 3 level of torque strength.

Clutch pack LSD often referred as passive LSD.

Here is a good explanation ( Trac-Lok is just another name like PosiTrac used by car makers :D ) of how the clutch pack works to maintain traction :

Below is a comparison of the open carrier (left) and the Trac-Lok (right). The guts of the Trac-Lok are the clutch packs that sit outboard of the spider gears (green arrow). When both tires are turning at the same speed, the spider gears will be stationary relative to the carrier. When the two tires spin at different speeds, the spider gears will spin relative to the carrier. The clutch packs in a Trac-Lok resist that spinning, attemping to tie the spider gears and the carrier together and thereby keep both tires turning at the same speed. When the clutch packs wear out, your Trac-Lok is reduced to being just an open carrier again.


The spring is initial torque in GT6, and the amount of torque can be adapted by taking into account the engine torque sent to the differential in the game.

So, if you have an engine that outputs 400lbs of torque and uses PosiTrac with 200lb preload/spring kit. Then it will have 50% initial torque and lock.

in GT6 the max amount for 100% is 60. Then we use value of 30 for the initial torque and 27 for acceleration to try simulate the LSD.


What if I have 600lb torque engine and uses 800lb preload ? It should be only used in drag race IMO :) GT6 setup would be initial 60/ accel 60. But reducing the accel a little might be advisable to simulate the clutch pack effectiveness. The clutch pack LSD do not lock as strong as a locker diff ( positive lock LSD ) I would go with initial 60 /accel 54

Acceleration value in GT6 is hard to explain, I based my adaptation on comparing real life experience with some after market LSD and try to replicate that in GT6. Accel has 60 max value, 60 I consider as 100% lock almost immediately ( high response ). It seems the less the value, the less is the lock and less response ( slower to lock ). Initial torque or preload or break away torque is the amount of torque the diff able to take before break free/open ( resistance ) and engage the locking mechanism. This is the way it works as well in GT6, if you have accel at 5 ( min ), increasing initial alone will cause understeer or push as the diff will stay lock longer ( more resistance ).


As stated in the Duntov article, the higher the torque preload, the more resistance and the car will tend to push more ( understeer ). If the car has low power/torque and uses 800lbs preload, it will be like what stated in the article :

The 800 lb preload kit is a racing only set up, and is the greatest for hook up, but it may cause your car to push, but not nearly as much as would a locker. The choice of differential preload springs comes down to how much power you have, the size of the tire you run, how your car handles, how tight is the racetrack, etc. If you only have 400 horsepower, you probably don’t need 800 lb. springs. If you are ordering a racing differential from us and would rather have the carbon fiber clutch pack with 400 pound springs, just indicate that in the notes section of the check-out sheet. The change won’t affect the price.

If your car is already pushing (understeer), using heavier differential clutch preload springs will make it worse. If you need the additional traction out of a corner that you will get with the 800 lb springs, you might want to address that push by one or more of the following: soften the front bar, soften the front springs, or try a rear sway bar. If you have not been running a rear bar, a little goes a long way. A stock rear bar may be all you need.

The easy part might be finding the lowest accel value that will hit the balance between outside wheel spin and inside wheel spin on exit. For braking, simply raise until you find the car is too tight or hard to turn in. You can set both accel and brake easily with initial at 5 ( lowest resistance ), then raise the initial slowly until you feel it hinders the car rotation. Initial torque usually used for easy way to stabilize the car before there's any loss of traction, so the effect will be there all the time. The higher the initial, the more predictable the car will be as the changes due to the traction loss is less, but also more understeer.
 
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@TurnLeft The avatar is an EAG selfie, right? :lol: :cheers:

Edit: I like it. Really. đź‘Ť
:D Good one! :lol: :lol: :lol:


Your right, we really all such at guessing games :sly:
Ah ha! That leaves Germany or Italy then doesn't it :D
I was guessing it to be that gorgeous looking classic E cat. :banghead:
It's one of them đź‘Ť

The other one is..

Dum Dum Dum Dum,
Dum Dum Dum Dum,
Dum Dum Dum Dum,
Dum Dum Dum Dum. :lol:

Right, I really should be sleeping. Stop typing now.

Good day gentlmen :)
 
Thank you for taking the time to provide such an informative response @Ridox2JZGTE! I will be reading and re-reading your post until some of that information starts sinking in and staying in my tiny little brain. :D I suppose one thing that always compounded my confusion was the fact that GT6 uses settings of 5 to 60 without providing any units. I'm looking at a tune I applied to my 2008 BMW M5, provided by HAB Tuning and it has LSD settings of 8/11/11. What does that mean? 8 what? 11 what? 11 what? I think this is what really increases my level of confusion.

Still, I think your response is going to help me tremendously. đź‘Ť I've only skimmed through it, but when I have the time I will study it completely. Thanks again, Ridox! :bowdown:
 
Thank you for taking the time to provide such an informative response @Ridox2JZGTE! I will be reading and re-reading your post until some of that information starts sinking in and staying in my tiny little brain. :D I suppose one thing that always compounded my confusion was the fact that GT6 uses settings of 5 to 60 without providing any units. I'm looking at a tune I applied to my 2008 BMW M5, provided by HAB Tuning and it has LSD settings of 8/11/11. What does that mean? 8 what? 11 what? 11 what? I think this is what really increases my level of confusion.

Still, I think your response is going to help me tremendously. đź‘Ť I've only skimmed through it, but when I have the time I will study it completely. Thanks again, Ridox! :bowdown:

I always assumed the 60 value represent 100% or max in GT5 and GT6, but some stock LSD has 50/80/0 value, the 80 values is out of reach on custom LSD. When I tested 60 accel LSD, the lock response and strength is similar to very aggressive LSD setup for circuit/drift cars IRL :) One of the car in GT6 that has stock 50/80/0 lsd is GT86/BRZ/FRS, these trio has torsen LSD IRL, the torque bias ratio is not yet known to me, but might be in the 2:1 range. I think PD 80 value might be special value, I need to do some test :P

For initial, I assumed the 60 is 100% value of engine torque, so 8 would usually be very little value of torque ( depending on the engine output )

Again, these are just the method that I have been using since GT5 in order to approximate what I have experience in real life and adapt it into the game. The resulting lock performance and handling seems to be going in the right direction from what I did on most of my replicas.


IRL, some high performance aftermarket LSD has high torque bias ratio - 5:1 to 8:1x ( rally cars ), high cam or low ramp angle, large diameter plate - durability, aggressive preload - some has more than 15kgf, more than 8 clutch plate -allows smoother lock action ( NISMO has 20 !! )

If these LSD used in GT6, the result would be similar to what I have implemented on replicas. Take the F40 EU replica for example and compare the way it slide/loses traction on exit between RL and GT6 replica.

Watch how the F40 slide/loses traction and see how the outside tire left those black marks darker than the inside ( F40 has 60% ZF LSD )


and what entails when you have 60% lock LSD and powerful engine + street tires :



The RUF Yellowbird has 80% lock LSD, which can be easily spotted when it easily leaves lurid smoky tails of long black marks from both rear wheels.




What bothers me most is how GT6 physics handle the low lock LSD / close to open diff and how the tire physics/model react to it when losing traction. The tire model ( heat, grip loss, ) makes low / close to open diff setup can be quicker. easier and consistent to drive than with higher lock. Imagine driving a car with worn torsen LSD or worn clutch plate LSD, that is what preferred in GT6 and gives good lap times :eek: :banghead: A little inside wheel spin LSD setup can give better lap times than the kind of LSD that F40 has.
 
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I always assumed the 60 value represent 100% or max in GT5 and GT6, but some stock LSD has 50/80/0 value, the 80 values is out of reach on custom LSD. When I tested 60 accel LSD, the lock response and strength is similar to very aggressive LSD setup for circuit/drift cars IRL :) One of the car in GT6 that has stock 50/80/0 lsd is GT86/BRZ/FRS, these trio has torsen LSD IRL, the torque bias ratio is not yet known to me, but might be in the 2:1 range. I think PD 80 value might be special value, I need to do some test :P

For initial, I assumed the 60 is 100% value of engine torque, so 8 would usually be very little value of torque ( depending on the engine output )

Again, these are just the method that I have been using since GT5 in order to approximate what I have experience in real life and adapt it into the game. The resulting lock performance and handling seems to be going in the right direction from what I did on most of my replicas.


IRL, some high performance aftermarket LSD has high torque bias ratio - 5:1 to 8:1x ( rally cars ), high cam or low ramp angle, large diameter plate - durability, aggressive preload - some has more than 15kgf, more than 8 clutch plate -allows smoother lock action ( NISMO has 20 !! )

If these LSD used in GT6, the result would be similar to what I have implemented on replicas. Take the F40 EU replica for example and compare the way it slide/loses traction on exit between RL and GT6 replica.

Watch how the F40 slide/loses traction and see how the outside tire left those black marks darker than the inside ( F40 has 60% ZF LSD )


and what entails when you have 60% lock LSD and powerful engine + street tires :



The RUF Yellowbird has 80% lock LSD, which can be easily spotted when it easily leaves lurid smoky tails of long black marks from both rear wheels.




What bothers me most is how GT6 physics handle the low lock LSD / close to open diff and how the tire physics/model react to it when losing traction. The tire model ( heat, grip loss, ) makes low / close to open diff setup can be quicker. easier and consistent to drive than with higher lock. Imagine driving a car with worn torsen LSD or worn clutch plate LSD, that is what preferred in GT6 and gives good lap times :eek: :banghead: A little inside wheel spin LSD setup can give better lap times than the kind of LSD that F40 has.
Loved the videos, sure makes you dream :cool:. The one thing that I would like is to be able to adjust the joy stick throw scale, or have two joysticks 1 for brakes the other for gas, or a wheel & pedals:D. just to be able to more feel and control the wheel spin in curves, especially with the CTR :bowdown:.
 
I had a couple of runs with the F40 at La Sarthe, very nice car to drive! Very stable and predictable, it still oversteer a lot, but it's easy to control.

With cockpit view and the info display turned off, it was a very nice ride! Thanks for the tune! :cheers:


Thank for giving time to review and post a beautiful picture đź‘Ť The tune was made for Midfield and Apricot Hill, so it has to be a bit easier to control than the replica it was based on. Maybe you can get a gold on the Apricot Hill Super lap too :D

Loved the videos, sure makes you dream :cool:. The one thing that I would like is to be able to adjust the joy stick throw scale, or have two joysticks 1 for brakes the other for gas, or a wheel & pedals:D. just to be able to more feel and control the wheel spin in curves, especially with the CTR :bowdown:.

The PS2 Toca race driver 3 was great, allows deadzone and range adjustment even on gas and brake ( so you can tailor how much force needed even on the cross and square :D ), dunno why PD didn't include such options. The Toca RD3 even has a clutch button on stick controller :P

The new look of Vitz RS Turbo:

View attachment 345228

Car Paint: GT JAPANESE 001-C (Solid)
Wheels: PDI P525N (Standard)

Mandatory:
Cockpit view, a decent headset and turn up the volume.

:cheers:

That looks evil, evil vitz :lol: I thought it's a matte paint, but it's solid paint, nice shot too.

I don't really remember how the car sounded in cockpit, but I will give it a try next time I play đź‘Ť Just had a bout of comment frenzy on my profile :lol: GT5 days were much friendlier and more understanding, I only need to share my work ( car sharing and gifting was magic ) and I don't need to type so many words only to get put down. The Devil Z was evil, and people loved it even on CS tire :D I missed my F40 LM replica :( not possible in GT6 without hybriding.
 
Thank for giving time to review and post a beautiful picture đź‘Ť The tune was made for Midfield and Apricot Hill, so it has to be a bit easier to control than the replica it was based on. Maybe you can get a gold on the Apricot Hill Super lap too :D

You're welcome!

I am currently at position #309 on that seasonal(1:26.682), with my setup, but i will try to get back in the top 250. I think i can beat that time with your tune, will try it later!
 
NISSAN MARCH 12SR '07 HKS HIPERMAX S-Style C
Special Build Nissan March Online Race 437PP + 450PP

Comfort Soft to Racing Hard



View attachment 298846


CAR : Nissan March 12SR '07
Tire : Comfort Soft to Racing Hard


Specs
Horsepower: 205 HP at 6600 RPM
Torque: 168.3 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 82.6%
Weight: 872 kg
Ballast : 33 kg
Ballast Position : 16 - move further back to 50 for even more rotation
Weight Distribution : 58/42
Performance Points: 437

Specs 450PP Version
Horsepower: 229 HP at 7300 RPM
Torque: 169.9 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 91.6%
Weight: 872 kg
Ballast : 33 kg
Ballast Position : 16 - move further back to 50 for even more rotation
Weight Distribution : 58/42
Performance Points: 450


GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED in this build ) - OPTIONAL
Aero Kits Type A
Custom Wing Type A
Wheels : +2 Inch Up ENKEI RP03 TypeRC painted in GT6 Polarized 02 or Stock
Brake Caliper Paint : Red
Car Paint : GT6 Polarized 02
Gauges :
Slot 1 : Boost gauge in Black ( Any )
Slot 2 : Tach in Black 0-8000rpm
Slot 3 : Speedo in Black 0-200kmh
Color : Orange ( Saturation 100, Brightness 100 )



Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
High RPM Range Turbo Kit
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Customizable Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Triple Plate Clutch Kit
Racing Brakes Kit - OPTIONAL ( I used standard brakes )
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - HKS HIPERMAX S-Style C Coilover Kit
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 89 75
Spring Rate: 3.00 3.90
Dampers (Compression): 4 6
Dampers (Extension): 5 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 6
Camber Angle: 0.3 1.0
Toe Angle: -0.08 -0.60


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 5 Speed Custom
Install all power parts
Set Default
Use default Auto Max Speed at 190kmh / 118mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.700
2nd 2.560
3rd 1.880
4th 1.490
5th 1.190
Set Final : 3.800


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 5 Speed Custom 1.17
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Final to 3.800
Use default Auto Max Speed at 190kmh / 118mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.700
2nd 2.560
3rd 1.880
4th 1.490
5th 1.190




LSD 1 Way
Initial Torque : 18
Acceleration Sensitivity: 24
Braking Sensitivity: 5


AERO
Rear : 5 ( MIN )


Brake Balance:
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Nissan March HKS special tune was made for online race at SSR5 Clubman, with very fast tire wear. The tune is based on replica that I haven't published. The car has limitation on power, PP and weight to fit the race regulations.

The tune is the quickest and most consistent with 56s lap possible among other FF cars that has been tested online at SSR5 Clubman. Replay of the run included

UPDATE : Added 450PP and custom transmission 1.17
 

Attachments

  • MarchSSR5Clubman56sRH.zip
    249.5 KB · Views: 14
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Plymouth CUDA AAR Six Barrel '70
Online Race 475PP + 500PP

Special Build CUDA AAR for Online Race
Sports Medium to Racing Hard



View attachment 297185
First race, first lap, second corner - The Winning overtake


CAR : Plymouth Cuda AAR 340 Six Barrel '70
Tire : Sports Medium to Racing Hard


Specs
Horsepower: 348 HP at 5500 RPM
Torque : 376.6 ft-lb at 4000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1300 kg
Ballast : 24 kg
Ballast Position : 20
Weight Distribution : 56 / 44
Performance Points: 475

Specs 500PP
Horsepower: 418 HP at 5800 RPM
Torque : 428.9 ft-lb at 4300 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1300 kg
Ballast : 24 kg
Ballast Position : 20
Weight Distribution : 56 / 44
Performance Points: 500


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Aero Kits Type A
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Sassy Grass Green


Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Engine Tuning Stage 1 ( ONLY FOR 500PP )
Catalytic Converter Sports ( ONLY FOR 500PP )
Adjustable LSD
Adjustable Suspension
Adjustable Transmission
Triple Plate Clutch
Carbon Drive Shaft
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - EIBACH Springs
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 130 130
Spring Rate: 4.46 3.57
Dampers (Compression): 2 4
Dampers (Extension): 4 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.0 0.0
Toe Angle: 0.07 0.00


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Custom Ratio 475PP
Install power parts
Reset Default
Set Final to 3.230
Set Auto Max Speed to 320kmh / 199mph
Set each gear :
1st 3.045
2nd 2.101
3rd 1.550
4th 1.208
5th 1.000
Final : 3.230 - 3rd gear good for holding the long curve, if wanted more acceleration, use 3.450 / top speed at 174mph / 280kmh :D

DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Custom Ratio 500PP
Install power parts
Reset Default
Set Final to 3.230
Set Auto Max Speed to 330kmh / 205mph
Set each gear :
1st 3.045
2nd 2.101
3rd 1.550
4th 1.208
5th 1.000
Final : 3.230 - 3rd gear good for holding the long curve, if wanted more acceleration, use 3.450 / top speed at 186mph / 299kmh :D



LSD - 1.5 Way LSD
Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 13



Brake Balance:
5/5 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/3, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

Built for online race with 475PP limit, Sports Medium and very fast tire wear.
The car was tuned at Big Willow, aiming for consistent 1:24s lap online with very fast tire wear, 5 laps sprint race. 1:23s offline tested, flat out on 3rd gear at the 2nd corner @ 100mph.

A multiple winner in the hands of @danbojte online, picture for the car above also courtesy of danbojte, the 1st win on the 1st race, 2nd corner, winning overtake :D


UPDATE : Added 500PP version, and transmission for both.




 
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NISSAN MARCH 12SR '07 HKS HIPERMAX S-Style C
Special Build Nissan March Online Race 437PP

Comfort Soft to Racing Hard



View attachment 298846


CAR : Nissan March 12SR '07
Tire : Comfort Soft to Racing Hard


Specs
Horsepower: 205 HP at 6600 RPM
Torque: 168.3 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 82.6%
Weight: 872 kg
Ballast : 33 kg
Ballast Position : 16 - move further back to 50 for even more rotation
Weight Distribution : 58/42
Performance Points: 437


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED in this build ) - OPTIONAL
Aero Kits Type A
Custom Wing Type A
Wheels : +2 Inch Up ENKEI RP03 TypeRC painted in GT6 Polarized 02 or Stock
Brake Caliper Paint : Red
Car Paint : GT6 Polarized 02
Gauges :
Slot 1 : Boost gauge in Black ( Any )
Slot 2 : Tach in Black 0-8000rpm
Slot 3 : Speedo in Black 0-200kmh
Color : Orange ( Saturation 100, Brightness 100 )



Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Sports
High RPM Range Turbo Kit
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Customizable Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Triple Plate Clutch Kit
Racing Brakes Kit - OPTIONAL ( I used standard brakes )
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - HKS HIPERMAX S-Style C Coilover Kit
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 89 75
Spring Rate: 3.00 3.90
Dampers (Compression): 4 6
Dampers (Extension): 5 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 6
Camber Angle: 0.3 1.0
Toe Angle: -0.08 -0.60


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 5 Speed Custom
Install all power parts
Set Default
Use default Auto Max Speed at 190kmh / 118mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.700
2nd 2.560
3rd 1.880
4th 1.490
5th 1.190
Set Final : 3.800


LSD 1 Way
Initial Torque : 18
Acceleration Sensitivity: 24
Braking Sensitivity: 5


AERO
Rear : 5 ( MIN )


Brake Balance:
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Nissan March HKS special tune was made for online race at SSR5 Clubman, with very fast tire wear. The tune is based on replica that I haven't published. The car has limitation on power, PP and weight to fit the race regulations. I will update the tune again soon, with 450PP specs and transmission setup that works on 1.17.

The tune is the quickest and most consistent with 56s lap possible among other FF cars that has been tested online at SSR5 Clubman. Replay of the run included
I hope we'll be able to get the right specs for this :http://www.nissan.ca/micra-cup/en/
it would be very cool.
 
Not much info to follow through, will keep researching when I am free :)
I tried contacting them, :banghead: :grumpy:, I might be able to go see the races at Saint-Eustache, 10 minutes from my home, if I can I'll try to talk to some pilots and see if I can get some info.
 
Corvette C7 Stingray Z06
Z07 Performance Package
Randy Pobst MotorTrend Test
"Big" Willow Springs International Raceway

Tuned to replicate Stingray Z06 2015
Comfort Soft to Sports Hard





CAR : Corvette Stingray C7 '14
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Hard


Specs Car & Driver 7 Spd Manual Test Weight
Horsepower: 650 HP / 659 PS at 6600 RPM
Torque: 654.2 ft-lb at 4700 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.6%
Weight: 1615 kg
Ballast : 115 kg
Ballast Position : -16
Weight Distribution : 51 / 49 - real life 50.5 / 49.5
Performance Points: 574

Specs Car & Driver 8 Spd AT Test Weight
Horsepower: 650 HP / 659 PS at 6600 RPM
Torque: 654.2 ft-lb at 4700 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.6%
Weight: 1614 kg
Ballast : 114 kg
Ballast Position : 1
Weight Distribution : 50 / 50 - real life 49.5 / 50.5
Performance Points: 575



GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Aero Kits Type A
Wheels : Standard Size Stock RAYS 57Xtreme in Black
Car Paint : Sunset Pearlescent or Red


Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Sports
Supercharger
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission ( ONLY for 8 SP AT )
Fully Customizable Suspension


Suspension - FE7 Z07 Performance Package
Street Alignment - Comfort Soft - Michelin Pilot Super Sport ZP

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 122 122
Spring Rate: 12.15 14.31
Dampers (Compression): 3 2
Dampers (Extension): 5 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 4
Camber Angle: 0.9 1.1
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.00

Suspension - FE7 Z07 Performance Package
Track Alignment - Sports Hard - Michelin Pilot Cup 2 ZP

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 122 122
Spring Rate: 12.15 14.31
Dampers (Compression): 3 2
Dampers (Extension): 5 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 4
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.7
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.05



DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Stock gear ratio 8 Speed Hydra-Matic 8L90 AT Adapted to 7 Speed
Set Default
Set Final to 2.410
Set Auto Max Speed to 450kmh / 280mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 4.560
2nd 2.970
3rd 2.080
4th 1.690
5th 1.270
6th 1.000
7th 0.850
( 8th gear 0.650 for fuel conserve is not available and rarely if not will never be used at the track
with 175mph @3525 RPM - useless for performance )
Set Final Gear : 2.410


LSD Chevrolet C7 E-LSD
Initial Torque : 22
Acceleration Sensitiviy: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 13


Brake Balance:
7/9 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/7, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 )with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

The Stingray Corvette C7 Z06 is the next evolution from the base Stingray. Equipped with multitude of performance upgrades, from power, brake, handling and aero.

The main power increase comes from the Eaton R1740 TVS Supercharger, a special blower built for the Z06, a little brother to the previous gen C6 ZR1 blower, Eaton R1900, the new blower capable to spin at higher speed @20000RPM. Faster than the older blower at @15000RPM, but displaces less air at 1.7 liters per rev against ZR1 blower at 2.3 liters and less peak boost at 9.4 psi vs 9.7 psi.

The blower allows the Z06 to reach 650HP and 650 lb ft of torque, a matching numbers :D There are 2 version of transmission, 7 speed Tremec TR6070 with Active Rev Match and 8 speed Hydra-Matic 8L90 automatic with paddle shifters. I have provided the 8 speed setup with only 7 speed available due to GT6 limitation. The 8th is very tall and only meant for cruising / fuel saver, and will never be used at the track. The 7 speed manual ratio is correct for the stock transmission, shift point for both setup is 6500RPM.

For weight, I have used the Car & Driver test weight, with 7 speed manual Z06 at 1615kg and 50.5 / 49.5 distribution, while the 8 speed AT Z06 is 1kg lighter at 1614kg and more rear bias at 49.5 / 50.5.

Now, onto suspension, the FE6 ( base Z06 ) package have been reported to have similar stiffness to C6 Corvette ( possibly Z06 or base coupe ). I have also information on the Z07 ( Performance Package ) for Z06, this comprised of :



As this replica is based on Z06 with Z07 Package, I used additional information that stated :

The front spring is 62% higher rate on the FE7 than the FE6.
The rear spring is 22% higher rate on the FE7 than the FE6.

The information is reportedly from Chevy engineer.

I set about to use the base C6 spring rate as foundation, after I tried the Z06 from C6 Vette as base and found it to be too stiff, although it may be usable. This brought the spring rate to : R 801.5 lb/in and F 680.4 lb/in. This may not be accurate, but it's the best I can get and I optimize the setup based on the spring rate.

I have included 2 alignment set, street and track. The street is best used with comfort tires and track with sports hard tires. The base FE6 package comes with Michelin Pilot Super Sport ZP tires, while the FE7 ( Z07 ) comes with Michelin Pilot Cup 2 ZP ( a track ready tire/semi slick ). The Super Sport ZP tire is capable of 1.12G on 300ft Skidpad ( 7 Sp MT ) - on par with SRT Viper T/A, while the Michelin Pilot Cup 2 ZP is capable of 1.19G :eek: on 300ft Skidpad ( 8 Sp AT ). The Pilot Cup would be closer to SH tire in GT6, although I felt the lateral grip of SH is still higher than it should be. The best representation would be comfort soft tire and using street alignment.

The LSD is set based on previous replica of C6 Z06 Vette, although the C7 Z06 has E-LSD. The lsd setup is more than adequate to harness the torque and gives good traction at all speed.

The target performance for this build is Randy Pobst lap record at Big Willow on a test by MotorTrend and cars provided by Chevrolet. The Z06 with 7 speed MT managed 1:25.00 lap time, while the replica on 7 speed MT specs, CS tire and street alignment, managed 1:24s. For more realistic acceleration on higher speed ( more drag ), flat floor can be installed, but this might require stiffer rear damper compression ( increase by 1 or 2 ).

The Z06 also tested at Tsukuba where it beats the ZR1 real life Best Motoring record at 1:02.55, able to lap in low 1:02s on CS tire and early build.

I have provided the replay of the Big Willow lap, enjoy and use it as a ghost if you wish.
When I saw the Corvette Z06 build appear in this Garage I was beyond excited. I've been anxiously awaiting this car for quite some time. Sadly, I've been dealing with some personal issues so I didn't have the time to build this car right away. Fortunately, I did have time today, so I called my mechanics in and told them to get to work. :sly:

My initial reaction was actually one of disappointment. I don't blame Ridox for this. After all, there is only so much that he can do to bring us replica builds. So, I hope no one takes what I'm about to say as an indictment of Ridox's replica tuning. I was disappointed for a few reasons. First, the brakes on this Z06 are terrible. The brakes are one of the real Z06's shining features, and even with brake balance set to 8/10, I felt braking distances were just way, way too long compared to the real car. Perhaps Racing Brakes should be installed? I know that we're trying to modify a base Vette and it probably has an average braking setting coded to the car, so there is only so much we can do with the Standard Brakes.

This Z06 understeers like crazy. On throttle, off throttle...it doesn't really matter, this baby is going to plow into barriers if you aren't careful. Of course, I can adjust my driving to minimize this understeering, but I'm just disappointed that I have to adjust my driving so severely. Again, I don't think that the real Z06 suffers from this at all.

From what I have read, the Z06 with Z07 package doesn't pull very hard above 130mph. After all, this is a track focused car and the real Z06 w/Z07 package suffers at higher speed due to drag -- I'm wondering if a Flat Floor should be applied to this build? I think that would help keep some of the top end speed down a bit and it should improve downforce, right?

Also, it's a real bummer that we can't set the actual gear ratios of the 7 speed manual Z06. The actual gear ratios are listed at this chevrolet.com link (warning: PDF file). Unfortunately, as I'm sure Ridox discovered, there is just no way to set the actual ratios exactly 100% perfectly. This is yet another reason why PD needs to fix that tranny bug that appeared with the last update. I'm sure if we used a different starting Final Gear, we could probably figure out a Max Speed setting that WOULD give us all of the 7 gear ratios we need, and THEN we could move the final gear back to 3.420, instead of having to set Final Gear to 3.420 before anything else. In the meantime, I'm just using the Paddle Shift Auto (8 speed) gear ratios that Ridox provides.

Please remember, none of this is Ridox's fault. We all know that he does his research and he applies the settings of the real cars, when possible, and he deviates from the actual car settings only when it is necessary to fix a problem that exists because of the issues that are caused by Gran Turismo's flaws, ie. physics issues. I'm just so surprised that this car has so many issues, at least according to my expectations.

I would love it if you provided an opinion on the questions I posed regarding the installation of Racing Brakes and/or a Flat Floor. Obviously, I like to keep the replica build as close to 100% stock in real life, but do you think there is anything that can be done to the suspension setup that would get the enormous understeer out of the car without drastically deviating from real life values? I was thinking specifically about the front toe value...

Does anyone else feel the same way as I do regarding this Z06 with Z07 Package?
 
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When I saw the Corvette Z06 build appear in this Garage I was beyond excited. I've been anxiously awaiting this car for quite some time. Sadly, I've been dealing with some personal issues so I didn't have the time to build this car right away. Fortunately, I did have time today, so I called my mechanics in and told them to get to work. :sly:

My initial reaction was actually one of disappointment. I don't blame Ridox for this. After all, there is only so much that he can do to bring us replica builds. So, I hope no one takes what I'm about to say as an indictment of Ridox's replica tuning. I was disappointed for a few reasons. First, the brakes on this Z06 are terrible. The brakes are one of the real Z06's shining features, and even with brake balance set to 8/10, I felt braking distances were just way, way too long compared to the real car. Perhaps Racing Brakes should be installed? I know that we're trying to modify a base Vette and it probably has an average braking setting coded to the car, so there is only so much we can do with the Standard Brakes.

This Z06 understeers like crazy. On throttle, off throttle...it doesn't really matter, this baby is going to plow into barriers if you aren't careful. Of course, I can adjust my driving to minimize this understeering, but I'm just disappointed that I have to adjust my driving so severely. Again, I don't think that the real Z06 suffers from this at all.

From what I have read, the Z06 with Z07 package doesn't pull very hard above 130mph. After all, this is a track focused car and the real Z06 w/Z07 package suffers at higher speed due to drag -- I'm wondering if a Flat Floor should be applied to this build? I think that would help keep some of the top end speed down a bit and it should improve downforce, right?

Also, it's a real bummer that we can't set the actual gear ratios of the 7 speed manual Z06. The actual gear ratios are listed at this chevrolet.com link (warning: PDF file). Unfortunately, as I'm sure Ridox discovered, there is just no way to set the actual ratios exactly 100% perfectly. This is yet another reason why PD needs to fix that tranny bug that appeared with the last update. I'm sure if we used a different starting Final Gear, we could probably figure out a Max Speed setting that WOULD give us all of the 7 gear ratios we need, and THEN we could move the final gear back to 3.420, instead of having to set Final Gear to 3.420 before anything else. In the meantime, I'm just using the Paddle Shift Auto (8 speed) gear ratios that Ridox provides.

Please remember, none of this is Ridox's fault. We all know that he does his research and he applies the settings of the real cars, when possible, and he deviates from the actual car settings only when it is necessary to fix a problem that exists because of the issues that are caused by Gran Turismo's flaws, ie. physics issues. I'm just so surprised that this car has so many issues, at least according to my expectations.

I would love it if you provided an opinion on the questions I posed regarding the installation of Racing Brakes and/or a Flat Floor. Obviously, I like to keep the replica build as close to 100% stock in real life, but do you think there is anything that can be done to the suspension setup that would get the enormous understeer out of the car without drastically deviating from real life values? I was thinking specifically about the front toe value...

Does anyone else feel the same way as I do regarding this Z06 with Z07 Package?

Thank you for giving honest feedback :) Any criticism is welcomed, for 7 speed, I used stock ratio for the time being. I will update the replica again when I play. I need to find a way to get the 7 speed Tremec 6070 C Option work on 1.17 method of setting up transmission. I made a mistake there for using the B option Tremec for 7 speed ( leaving it stock ), and it seems I have conflicting data, my bad.

For understeer, I intentionally add understeer on the setup for easier consistency drive at Tsukuba, but I'm surprised it was this much :( Did you encounter the severe understeer on CS and SH tire ? I will suggest to increase all damper value and ARB by 1 for a start ( the time being ), install flat floor as well.

I didn't put flat floor as the lap performance was already very quick without, but I also add in the notes about adding it to get more realistic acceleration above 100mph. For racing brakes, I will add this as option ( I benchmark the braking distance at Tsukuba and Big Willow 1st turn using standard brakes and deemed it good enough compared to Nissan GTR braking )


For front toe values, 0.05 is recommended value, you can run zero toe or slight toe out at -0.10 ( similar to what used on real Vette for track duty )

For braking performance, you can measure it, use ABS 0 (preferred), but ABS 1 is okay too, set any BB or type of brakes, then go to SSRX, hold speed at 70mph + 100mph and brake when you crossed start line. Make a note where you stopped ( use CS tire first ). The Car & Driver test 70mph-0 braking distance best result was 139feet / 42.3m on Michelin Super Sport tire ( non Z07 package )

For the Z07 package ( Michelin Pilot Cup 2 - might need SH ), the Car & Driver result was 70-0 distance : 128 feet / 39m, and from 100-0 : 261 feet / 79.55m.

I know it's hard to measure accurately, but you can get rough idea where the brakes strength is.
 
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That is the torque bias ratio :) 27.5% : 72.5% is indeed 45% ( lock ), so if one wheel spinning and only capable to put down 100 lb ft torque, the other wheel can have up to 263 lb ft torque. The TBR is 2.63:1. This is likely for the drive side, rarely factory set up have more than 3:1 TBR on the overrun.

That is my understanding on the LSD torque bias ratio :) I may be right or wrong :lol:
Sorry, was very tired yesterday after very long night at work.

Getting back to the TBR, you said rarely factory setup would be more than 3:1 on overrun overrun. Would this meant would have a maximum of 75:25 or 50% for braking?
 
Sorry, was very tired yesterday after very long night at work.

Getting back to the TBR, you said rarely factory setup would be more than 3:1 on overrun overrun. Would this meant would have a maximum of 75:25 or 50% for braking?

For most road cars , yep :) Higher lock on overrun/coast would cause understeer, most factory road cars would not want too much push when braking, but some cars with wild rear end may go higher ( Porsche is a good example - can be up to 60% )
 
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