Gran Turismo 7 Update 1.31 is Now Available

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Me waiting for my delivery. Checks App "Your driver is 1 stop away."


My driver:
cb926a4aa51bf9f588afd6d3fb5ec58e_photo.jpg
At long last, we can race the Truck.
 
Some people complaining about the update regarding Logitech G Pro wheel. My initial thought was wtf did they do? But after driving more than one car and for more than 20 minutes I have a different opinion. When you lose traction at the front wheels, the wheel gets light as it should. It’s never done that for me. ITHINK the wheel is lighter but I’m feeling more details. Cars are looser but more driveable or saveable imo.
The downside is, I think they could have achieved all of that without essentially turning down the strength? Thankfully I was only at 5 in game and 7 in my wheel. I’m now at 6 in game and 7.5 on the wheel. Ffb filter I have at 6 on the wheel and dampener at 14. I’m still going to tweak it but overall I think I’m happy with the physics changes I think I just have to get used of it, again.
 
Having trouble with rs5 on vr2 with motion rig. The vr2 keeps going out of the green lines because of the seat head supports. Have similar issues with the sr19.
 
The incar sound for the gorgeous little Porsche 904 GTS is much closer to the real Peugeot 908 HDI than the engine sound they used in GT7.

It's a great car to throw about.
 
Like night and day with a T300. Much heavier FFB now too. It's probably just more noticeable on belt driven wheels compared to DD wheels.
Can you share what settings you use? I adjusted mine last night after the update because it was too hard and now it is too soft. I have a T300 RS GT so presume that is the same.

Thanks,
 
Just came back from work and logged in. Quickly noticed:

  • All the Gr3 and Gr4 cars got 50 point increase in rear wing setting (650>700, 300>350)
  • PP is all over the place, some Gr4 cars got from 630 to 617, some from 630 to 635
  • All the Gr3 cars got a significant bump down in pp, so you can add much more power, especially with rear wing at 700
  • Front wing dramatically influences PP, much more than before
  • Old Gr1 cars got literally a 70PP bump down, Sauber C9, 787B, R92CP etc which I had tuned for Sardegna and Spa all got bumped from 800 to ~730PP ???? You can literally run the same setup as before but with like a 1000HP and still be within the 800PP limit
  • As for the driving, didn't have the time to test much, I ran the Aston DBR1 at Grand Valley and spun 5 or 6 times before completing a lap, terrible, we will see later what's what
  • T300RS is MUCH MUCH heavier than before on the same settings, it's like I increased the FFB from 5 to 10
After testing various cars on various tracks last night, I have some new observations :D

  • Force feedback is much more detailed, you can feel the front wheels losing grip, you can feel the bumps, curbs and road surface much more, it's definitely a big improvement, also, the wheel is lighter in the centre, and gets heavier as you turn, much heavier than before, I turned down the FFB on my T300RS from 5 to 4
  • MR Gr3 cars are finally nice to drive, I think the R8 Evo is my new favourite car, and I couldn't stand it before, I hated the way it slides sideways for no reason whatsoever, I still need to try the Huracan and the NSX to confirm the theory
  • FR Gr3 cars are MUCH more understeery, you need to brake sooner than before, and you can so easily lose the grip if you brake too late into the corner, it just slides forward even with the full lock on the wheel, you need to adjust your braking points to 50-100m earlier. I also have the feeling that they are much more oversteery in lower gears than before, it's much easier to spin the wheels if you put the full throttle down at the same moment as before the update, most of them spin the wheels even in the straight line in 2nd gear. Lowering the diff settings for torque and acceleration helps a bit, also lowering the rear feels like it improves the behaviour, complete opposite from previous patches
  • 120FPS looks horrible, I have a 32 inch Dell with 2560x1440 (165Hz) and the game looks and feels much much nicer with the 120FPS off and performance mode on
I still need to test other categories and some road cars, but in general, I think after this update you need to readjust your driving style completely, it feels almost like I'm playing a different game. Also, completely new suspension tuning is requried, just need the time to test and tryout some things and find the right balance.
 
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Am I the only who experienced some slight stuttering in the Mercedes Benz Arena on the new sprint layout of the Nürburgring in the new Touring Car 800 event?
Yeah, me too, some frame drops, not only on that event, even others, example Human Comedy Kyoto 1 hour race.
 
959 is a bit of a deathtrap bone stock ☠️ But I think it is realistic to irl though. 904 seems to snap also, if you try to go fast with racing tires, like 290+ hp and max aero, full speed at Le Mans fast T1 right hander. I'd keep the car fairly stock tbh, then it handles ok, because aero can keep up. I guess buying rigidity could help with its handling and some other settings. 🤔
 
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After update my notes:
changed to 120hz - only working in my case basis resolution as priority, other option when tried saw immediately that quality was compromised.

New physics
GR3 Porshe - was flying car, now lack of power, supra just flying away even if you follow the car in slip stream.. days before we have mulply cars and +/- same performance - why now we need meta cars racing or supra cup?
quail times old 35.3 now 37.5 - 2.2 seconds slower..

New physics - welcome back to GT SPORT, including throttle behavior, wheel feel more weighted with fanatec, again setting tuning ahead - some cars might fly now but porsche downgraded. for fanatec i moved from SEN1 to SEN2 - config - in game FF8, SS1.

SEN1SEN2
DefaultExpert
SENAUTOAUTOAUTO
FF100100100
FFSPEA 8NMPEAKPEAK
NDP502510
NFROFFOFFOFF
NINOFFOFFOFF
INT1121
FEI100100100
FOR100100100
SPR100100100
DPR100100100
 
My first impression:

Used the 120Hz/Resolution mode and seemed smooth without too much of a visual donwgrade (but the whole picture seemed darker?).

Tried one 10 lap GT700 race at Laguna Seca in a tuned Gr.4 Supra. More lively than before. Real oversteer and such. Harder to handle but ok. (I am on controller and automatic gearing) Before it was easy to win on hard difficulty. This time i had some troubles and just got to first place at the beginning of the final lap. Tire degradation was huge. Could barely make it 5 rounds with RM tires. (Dont know if the tire multiplier for this race changed)
 
I had a play around with the 959 and the new Audi using the controller only last night, and both seemed a bit of a handful in different ways.

I took both round the Nordschleife, and the 959 showed me parts of the scenery I'd never seen before - it is very squirrelly under braking and I struggled with it.

The Audi also seemed a bit of a handful - don't know whether this is the new physics or what, but I found the steering a bit clunky - clunkier than usual using the directional buttons, though the throttle control seemed a bit more 'realistic' insomuch as it is quite easy to over-do it.

Will try both with the wheel this weekend.
 
I wonder how these changes will effect the super license S7. It is already very hard for many of us. I just hope its not like impossible now :-(
It seems top 10 is 1.5-2sec behind the old record.
 
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So.. my take on the update. Didnt drive recently before the update, so all kinds of placebo is possible. Did most of my test with gr3 supra mk4 at Dragon Trail without tcs/abs and on rh/rm tires.

First the FFB - on contrary to a lot of comments, i think the ffb is tighter in T-GT. Didnt try other "street cars", but the wheel was surpricingly heavy in the new mazda 3 with racing suspension. FFB also feels more "connected" and accurate, but that might be due to physics change and vrr. Really like the lightness when front loses grip. Could be more progressive though - in informative/immersion perspective. Could get more clearly light when front slip angle increases instead of sudden drop when wheel lock on brakes.

Physics are the hardest to compare without extensive recent playtime. The car does feel more weighty and controllable. Dont mistake that for more grip as clearly there is less grip or sharper falloff to over- and especially understeer. Curbs in Dragon Trail bus stop are a great example. Car does de-stabilize, but now it feels more heavy and grounded instead of flying off the ground. Even with more over-/understeer it feels more driveable and once again "connected". Like said in many comments tire heating is a major thing it seems. It took me 2-3 laps to feel confident on the braking to first shicane of Dragon Trail.

Then a major thing with my gear - 120hz and especially VRR. In general vrr makes everything butter smooth and better. Seems this might be a big contributor in making everything feel more "connected" and immersive. Also sense of speed improves with better vrr fps. Once again i havent tested so extensively before update, but id say there is not just better true fps due to vrr, but also possibly even less lag. I did check fps on my Samsung Q95A game info. Usual 60hz mode runs butter smooth and stable 60fps on both FPS or RT/quality prioritized settings. Couple of things that surpriced me - 120hz mode runs actually around 100-110fps in game and 80fps in replay even with quality prioriticed. So theres really no reason to use 120hz with fps prioritized - other than to get rid of the ugly RT effects on menu/garage. What i did notice between 60hz vs 120hz is some reduction in lag when comparing steering wheel movement in real life vs on screen. In 120hz the lag goes from very small to near non-existent in my case. Did take videos on these but havent yet edited/uploaded those. Once again - this is propably why everything feels more "connected" after the vrr update.

Another thing i noticed was that theres clearly something wrong/fishy with 60hz/quality prioritized replays. TVs game console says steady 60fps vrr but visually it looks like interpolated choppy 25fps.. maybe something wrong with RT or one of the post-processing filters.
 
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My first impression:

Used the 120Hz/Resolution mode and seemed smooth without too much of a visual donwgrade (but the whole picture seemed darker?).

Tried one 10 lap GT700 race at Laguna Seca in a tuned Gr.4 Supra. More lively than before. Real oversteer and such. Harder to handle but ok. (I am on controller and automatic gearing) Before it was easy to win on hard difficulty. This time i had some troubles and just got to first place at the beginning of the final lap. Tire degradation was huge. Could barely make it 5 rounds with RM tires. (Dont know if the tire multiplier for this race changed)
Tire degradation was there before 1.31. I've played that race with 86 GR.4 and lost front tires at the end of lap 4.
 
My 2 cents on CE post v1.31 update:

Events never attempted pre update were fairly easy to gold (i.e., Daytona RC, Yamagiwa)

Going back and trying to upgrade bronze and silver trophies = still impossible.
 
Can you share what settings you use? I adjusted mine last night after the update because it was too hard and now it is too soft. I have a T300 RS GT so presume that is the same.

Thanks,
I alternate between 4/1 and 5/1. I have noticed it really is car dependant on how strong the FFB is though. Have tried adjusting sensitivity between 1-10 but can't decide what feels best to be honest.
 
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So the update is great but I am having a little trouble with wet weather driving and the new tyre wear, I used to always just run inters on Le Mans to avoid the stress hassle of spin central if it's heavy rain midlap but after the update it's no longer possible to do more than 1 lap on the wrong tyres.

So does anyone have any tips on how I can still be fast in the rain and not spend an enternity crawling back to the pits?

The cars I normally use are the F1 '65, GTR-500 Penzoil and the Silvia K13 with engine swap Gr4.

Wet weather tips appreciated!
 
So the update is great but I am having a little trouble with wet weather driving and the new tyre wear, I used to always just run inters on Le Mans to avoid the stress hassle of spin central if it's heavy rain midlap but after the update it's no longer possible to do more than 1 lap on the wrong tyres.

So does anyone have any tips on how I can still be fast in the rain and not spend an enternity crawling back to the pits?

The cars I normally use are the F1 '65, GTR-500 Penzoil and the Silvia K13 with engine swap Gr4.

Wet weather tips appreciated!

May not be what you're looking for, but if I get caught out in a downpour I simply ramp up the tcs from 0 to whatever I deem necessary to see rest of lap through without careering off at every turn.
 
Can you share what settings you use? I adjusted mine last night after the update because it was too hard and now it is too soft. I have a T300 RS GT so presume that is the same.

Thanks,
T300 RS GT here,
4-1 for road cars with Comfort/Sport tyres, and 3-1 for Racing tyres/high downforce.
Controller sensitivity 5 if that matters.
Fan always on.
 
Some people complaining about the update regarding Logitech G Pro wheel. My initial thought was wtf did they do? But after driving more than one car and for more than 20 minutes I have a different opinion. When you lose traction at the front wheels, the wheel gets light as it should. It’s never done that for me. ITHINK the wheel is lighter but I’m feeling more details. Cars are looser but more driveable or saveable imo.
The downside is, I think they could have achieved all of that without essentially turning down the strength? Thankfully I was only at 5 in game and 7 in my wheel. I’m now at 6 in game and 7.5 on the wheel. Ffb filter I have at 6 on the wheel and dampener at 14. I’m still going to tweak it but overall I think I’m happy with the physics changes I think I just have to get used of it, again.
I don’t think it goes anywhere near the same level of force it used to though, even with settings in game and on the wheel turned up to 11.
The wheel gets light when under steering but there’s very little in between/no skipping feel. It’s like going into severe understeer in the rain where you just slide away into understeer.
I hope they fix it. I’m using a G Pro as well, back to AC and giving the VR2 a rest meanwhile.
 
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I don’t think it goes anywhere near the same level or force or used to though, even with settings in game and on the wheel turned up to 11.
The wheel gets light when under steering but there’s very little in between/no skipping feel. It’s like going into severe understeer in the rain where you just slide away into understeer.
I hope they fix it. I’m using a G Pro as well, back to AC and giving the VR2 a rest meanwhile.
I always found the skipping feel a bit off, but I can see what you’re saying about maybe too much slide. Maybe they need to find a middle ground. Stuff like this they always seem to go one way or the other too far. I did notice some cars are a lot different. Like the old GT40 race car , feels wayyyy lighter than it used to, almost a skating along ice like feeling but then other cars seem better.

That’s gaming now though, people complain, squeaky wheel gets the grease, you end up with a game that’s different than what you initially purchased.
 
There is now a significant relationship between ride heights and drag, go too high, or add too much positive or negative rake, and you will bleed off top speed. My 700PP Corvette C4 goes from 255mph at min settings to 236mph at max. This used to only be a few mph.

Tunes that utilized a comical difference in ride heights will now be suffering on the straights.
 
So the update is great but I am having a little trouble with wet weather driving and the new tyre wear, I used to always just run inters on Le Mans to avoid the stress hassle of spin central if it's heavy rain midlap but after the update it's no longer possible to do more than 1 lap on the wrong tyres.

So does anyone have any tips on how I can still be fast in the rain and not spend an enternity crawling back to the pits?

The cars I normally use are the F1 '65, GTR-500 Penzoil and the Silvia K13 with engine swap Gr4.

Wet weather tips appreciated!
And why don't you use the weather radar? you can predict the rain one lap in advance
 
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