Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Finally after a month I received the replacement. This one is definitely construction quality wise as good as expected, no more creaks and clicks during the race. One odd thing that I immediately noticed though is that they started to include a shorter USB cable, about half a meter shorter (manufacturing date: October 2022). Just a side note, this unit is also affected by the dreaded HDMI related disconnect issue, definitely a product design issue, so yeah, just as before, PSVR2 on, disconnect HDMI cable, TV off.
 
@strwbryfruitc it’s not the encoders being faulty. GT7 doesn’t always pick them up for some reason.

It happens in ACC as well though? Honestly the behavior is the same as my G29 I've had for a few years, that why I wonder if its just the encoder Logitech sources from the manufacture? On the G29 as its consider an entry level racing wheel I kinda just accepted it but I was hoping the Pro wheel would be improved haha. If it indeed is a GT7 problem is Polyphony aware of it? I did a search and didn't find anyone else with this issue or I'm bad at using the search function :/
 
The first time I tried an open top car in GT7, I think it was the circuit experience at Brands Hatch, the experience was shockingly good as for 2 weeks I had become totally used to the somewhat claustrophobic views from inside of hardtop cars. The new 'vista' presented to me in VR was quite amazing, I could almost feel the sun on my skin and the wind in my face.

Later it occurred to me that a fan mounted on top of the G-Pro could very easily reproduce the sensation of wind in the face, simply by responding to speed information.

I wonder if it's possible to get MPH information from the game through the G-Pro USB outs to a fan controller?
 
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I wonder if it's possible to get MPH information from the game through the G-Pro USB outs to a fan controller?
People use something called "SimHub" to tap into the telemetry of the GT7. It might be possible to use that software to drive other outputs. I've seen somebody to use it to drive the Yaw2 motion rig with GT7.
 
Does anyone else have an issue where the rotary knob encoders sometimes does not register a click left or right doesn't matter, but need to be turned 2 clicks initially to be consider 1 click? Doesn't happen every time but in GT7 when I want to change from the weather menu to the TCS menu or fuel map, it won't register the correct number of clicks I feel? Are they just like that due to cheap rotary encoders or do I have a faulty unit? My old G923 was also like that, I wonder if that is just how they are?
same thing for me. Never even thought about it actually. I suppose its the way they are.
 
same thing for me. Never even thought about it actually. I suppose its the way they are.
I guess you can easily see if this is game specific. Or the way they are. I only use them inside the Pro wheel menus and have no such issues there. But i really dislike that mechanic as in every product i've owned with them they were the first to fail (micro wave and mp3 player), so i use them as little as possible to avoid issues down the line.
 
Hi @LOGI_Rich Assetto Corsa in pro mode has oscillation with low and high Downforce vehicles even with the sensitivity turned down to 1Nm and in fact the force feedback strength at 1Nm has no effect in game because the strength feels like 11Nm when the oscillation kicks in and nearly rips your arms off!

The only changes to the time to use that AC Content Manager has implemented a new “ soft lock” script but even with this option turned off or on the issue persists. could you look into it please come here's a link https://www.patreon.com/x4fab/posts?filters[tag]=preview to the contact manager page if it helps but I I'm not sure that is the issue . if you are unable to access the page that's a non- patron member, Here's a quote ,

New soft lock

With all those problems trying to get hardware steering lock to work on different steering wheels I’ve decided to try a different route, so I’ve added an alternative that is a lot more accessible now. Available in FFB Tweaks section is a new option for an alternative soft lock implementation that should work on all steering wheels (although some of them might require some settings tweaks). Taking into account wheel speed and with a smooth boundary, it should be a lot less bouncy. And, just in case, a simple Lua script can be used to add custom FFB postprocessing, including alternative soft lock implementations for steering wheels that work differently."

I've also contacted this developer to see if he can include the Logitech Pro in the test supported wheels or maybe you can reach to out to him [ if it's not too much trouble ] after liaising with Logitech to possibly send him Info or a pro wheel for testing as he is one of the major developers Still supporting AC?
 
Assetto Corsa in pro mode has oscillation
I had (and to a certain extent still have) this problem in PCars 2. I think there's some relationship with these older games that don't have Trueforce output sending data more suitable for the G29/920. To reduce the problem I added more dampener on the Pro. How much you add depends on how high you have the force set. You need to find a balance since too much will reduce FFB "feel".
Give it a try.

Depending on which car it is I can still have it sitting stationary with it's engine switched off and the wheel will start to oscillate.

In PC3, that has Trueforce, I don't have this problem.
 
I had (and to a certain extent still have) this problem in PCars 2. I think there's some relationship with these older games that don't have Trueforce output sending data more suitable for the G29/920. To reduce the problem I added more dampener on the Pro. How much you add depends on how high you have the force set. You need to find a balance since too much will reduce FFB "feel".
Give it a try.

Depending on which car it is I can still have it sitting stationary with it's engine switched off and the wheel will start to oscillate.

In PC3, that has Trueforce, I don't have this problem.
yes I even tried the damper at 100 , No joy. Strange thing is everything was fine last week just a Windows update I'm not sure that would change anything even though I am on the dev preview build cycle and also the content manager update , no issues before or after that last week updates.

These are the test settings below I'm using with this issue, where the defaults work perfectly last week in comparison.

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Strange thing is everything was fine last week
Ah, well something has changed since then. Could well be that soft lock feature has introduced the problem. It probably needs one of those tweaks that the text mentioned. Is it ok with other games?
 
Ah, well something has changed since then. Could well be that soft lock feature has introduced the problem. It probably needs one of those tweaks that the text mentioned. Is it ok with other games?
Yes all the other games are fine. I'm waiting for the content manager add-on to get back to me.
 
Spoke too soon, just after 2 days, about 8 hours of gameplay, the wheel is slowly but surely developing similar noise issues (creaks & clicks). At this point it's not as bad as the last unit was at the time I sent it back. I'm curious now if it will get even worse in the next few days, let's see. Definitely another design flaw of the wheel we can put on the list of issues. The rapid torque changes just keep hammering on that thing. I wonder if Logitech engineers knew about this but deemed it "acceptable" as the redesign would cost them time and money or the product testers failed to recognize the flaw.
 
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Spoke too soon, just after 2 days, about 8 hours of gameplay, the wheel is slowly but surely developing similar noise issues (creaks & clicks). At this point it's not as bad as the last unit was at the time I sent it back. I'm curious now if it will get even worse in the next few days, let's see. Definitely another design flaw of the wheel we can put on the list of issues. The rapid torque changes just keep hammering on that thing. I wonder if Logitech engineers knew about this but deemed it "acceptable" as the redesign would cost them time and money or the product testers failed to recognize the flaw.
I have the creaks & clicks too. I only use it with PSVR2 and headphones so it's less disturbing. However I will make a video and make a support ticket. I would really like a newer version with these creaks & clicks ironed out if this becomes available. It might be a Mk1 thing. It's the first direct drive wheel Logitech ever productised. I guess this is early adaptors risk. Ofcourse I 2 want a premium product for the premium price. I really enjoy it but hardware noises and feels are concerning now and also in terms of possible future malfunctioning. Hope @LOGI_Rich will have a statement at some point.
 
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It depends on where they're coming from. If it's clicks like Miroshi demonstrated in his previous videos where they can be heard/felt even when not running the wheel then the position on that is already defined - it shouldn't be happening.

If it's slight creaking from the wheel rim itself under high torque load and it's definitely not coming from output from the games then we take it on a case by case basis. As usual, send a ticket to support along with video (ideally showing the wheel in front of the game running so there's context) with full description of what's happening and they will assess.


@optical10 The developer of CM is probably going to be able to help you far more than I can as it's clearly a settings issue in CM. The one thing I would suggest checking is to see what happens if you run without the FFB Post Processing enabled.

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Especially if you've created a custom LUT file and are using that then that could be the source of the issue.
 
@LOGI_Rich Could you please check the status of Ticket Number: 11002834 for me? I sent a message via email today in response to a previous message, but I haven't received any confirmation that my message was received. I'm not sure if I did the right thing or if I should have opened a new ticket instead. The issue is that Logitech only registered the return of the steering wheel, even though I sent three packages - the steering wheel, pedals, and gloves. As a result, I was informed that I will receive less money back, only the amount for the base unit minus the discount for buying the pedals as part of a set.
Tkank you.
 
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@optical10 The developer of CM is probably going to be able to help you far more than I can as it's clearly a settings issue in CM. The one thing I would suggest checking is to see what happens if you run without the FFB Post Processing enabled.

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Especially if you've created a custom LUT file and are using that then that could be the source of the issue.
@@LOGI_Rich thanks for your suggestions . I've reached out to the Developer as you suggesting but I had not enabled FFB post processing anyway so I enabled it and there was no difference. Also also I had not created any custom LUT files or enabled them Relying on the Logitech recommended settings i.e. GAMMA etc.

I did try the onboard memory mode with exactly the same settings, [other than the sensitivity Slider which is not available) and the oscillation problem has stopped!
So I was wondering why Even though the sensitivity slider on my profiles was down to zero too and I was using a low Downforce car This was the case?

EDIT: I think I've worked it out on the two images below you will notice that the operating angle is the same however in the first on board memory image wheel position and the physical position corresponds correctly one to one however on the second image with the physical wheel position in the same notice it jumps to a wrong position which translates in game to the wheel animation flickering causing the oscillation, so what's causing this error in the operating range degree angle variation in the memory state on board memory versus my profile even though the sliders are in the same position other than the?

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@optical10 By having the sensitivity at 0 you're forcing a curve on the steering axis, making it far less responsive around the centre. What happens if you set it to 50 so that it's linear?
 
@optical10 By having the sensitivity at 0 you're forcing a curve on the steering axis, making it far less responsive around the centre. What happens if you set it to 50 so that it's linear?
Still the same I'm afraid. I take it the on bored memory profile keeps it at the linear setting? Could it be that my Profiles are corrupted?
 
Yes, there's no curve setting in onboard, which is why you have no Sensitivity option in that view.

When you're in G HUB mode, are the settings in G HUB matching on the OLED screen of the wheel?

@Mateusz90 support are checking into this for you.
 
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Do you have more than one AC profile in G HUB? I can see that you’ve set that one to persistent, so it shouldn’t matter, but just checking…

And you confirm that when you’re checking in the wheel that the G HUB profile is showing, rather than the onboard ones under the profile section of the OLED?

When you’re in G HUB profile mode any changes you make on the wheel should reflect in G HUB and vice versa. But we can see now why things might seem to be having an issue, especially with that very different operating range value…
 
Do you have more than one AC profile in G HUB? I can see that you’ve set that one to persistent, so it shouldn’t matter, but just checking…

And you confirm that when you’re checking in the wheel that the G HUB profile is showing, rather than the onboard ones under the profile section of the OLED?

When you’re in G HUB profile mode any changes you make on the wheel should reflect in G HUB and vice versa. But we can see now why things might seem to be having an issue, especially with that very different operating range value…
yes I have more than one AC profile in Ghub , so I deleted the others and went back to the default AC profile but I still have the issue.

Yes I can confirm that when checking in the wheel that the G hub profile is showing, rather than the on board profiles under the profile section of the OLED. I've added a small for MP4 from my phone to confirm that I'm doing it right.

As you said in your last comment the G hub profile mode changes are not being reflected in the G hub on the wheel, as the video I attached is showing, so is there a way to Revert back too Factory defaults while sleeping the latest firmware and software intact Which I know includes deleting all corrupted profiles as I'm not really fussed about losing other game profiles as AC is what I play 90% of the time?

 
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@Abelardo based on what I know, it's unlikely. We'll keep working with them on getting the latest version integrated ASAP.

@optical10 there's no factory reset for profiles and I'm not convinced that the issue is corrupted profiles. The issue here is that for some reason the link between G HUB and the wheel isn't working. If you disable persistent profile does that make any difference?

FYI the firmware won't be affected by any uninstall/reinstall of G HUB - that will only get affected if we release a newer update for the firmware itself.
 
@optical10 I just got access to the video and it indicates a possible reason why things aren't matching. You have to acknowledge that error message that comes up so that it closes the wheel setting in G HUB, because you can't have both the G HUB settings window and the OLED settings open at the same time. So back out of the G HUB settings to the main G HUB screen, make a change on the wheel, close the settings menu on the wheel and then check in G HUB to see if the change is now reflected. It's the same the other way too - if you make a change in G HUB then the OLED settings needs to be "closed" as well (by pressing the settings button on the wheel base). If you do that and it does get reflected then there's no issue.
 
@optical10 If you disable persistent profile does that make any difference?
no but there's been some progress as you will see in my next reply below
@optical10 I just got access to the video and it indicates a possible reason why things aren't matching. You have to acknowledge that error message that comes up so that it closes the wheel setting in G HUB, because you can't have both the G HUB settings window and the OLED settings open at the same time. So back out of the G HUB settings to the main G HUB screen, make a change on the wheel, close the settings menu on the wheel and then check in G HUB to see if the change is now reflected. It's the same the other way too - if you make a change in G HUB then the OLED settings needs to be "closed" as well (by pressing the settings button on the wheel base). If you do that and it does get reflected then there's no issue.
I think by following your instructions and by disabling persistent profile and first making the changes on the OLED screen while I was in the game seems to have sorted out problem.

However I'm not sure whether the G hub software will be of use anymore when I have to make the changes on the OLED screen but that doesn't have the profile name I've chosen previously like F1 220 degrees in the G hub software screen., what changed as it used to work in the G hub software setting permanent on multiple profiles before?

Also as the Logitech settings page says that the in game and the profile needs to be at one 1080 degrees for AC can I take it that they're is an issue with the title/developer implementation with soft lock even when enabled Or not that's the only way I can get the correct steering angle like for instance on the F1 after 220 degrees it's to leave the in game at 1080 degrees up to manually adjust the OLED screen to 220 degrees?

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Notice the Logitech pro wheel is not on the supportive controllers but the developer is asking for volunteers to test the Soft lock so I've sent him a email to include myself But it would be better coming directly from logitech?


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Not a major issue but is there any reason why the thumbnails of the games titles don't show on the games and application profile g hub software screen, could it be that some of those are not on the C drive?


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If you have persistent profile disabled then that allows any profile you have in G HUB to automatically load when you load that game. Leave the wheel in G HUB profile mode and if you've loaded up, say, F1 and make a change on the wheel, then it will update the currently active profile, which will be F1; load up AC and it'll be the AC profile that's active and altered if you change anything on the wheel. If you have persistent profile enabled then whichever profile is set to be persistent will always be the one that's loaded and changing settings on the OLED will update that profile (provided G HUB settings page for that profile isn't open).

Soft lock implementation outside of what's set on the wheel will vary from title to title. For example, F1's operating range settings that are in the game do nothing for our wheels - you have to set them either in G HUB or on the wheel. For vanilla AC you leave the wheel set to maximum, match that in the game settings and then it alters the angle internally to match the car. I can't speak to what CM is doing though!
 
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