Time Trial Discussion

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@Pesselles here is what I posted some time ago in this thread, it is about the DS4 but I'm sure you could find similar for the Dual Sense without having to get the expensive Sony controller.

I use motion steering and the back buttons but as per what @ScottPuss20 says, I have the back buttons set opposite to triggers.

R2 - accelerate
Right button - downshift
L2 - brake
Left button - upshift

It makes it easier to trail brake as you use your right hand to down shift at the same time as using you left hand to brake, meaning you can keep the same pressure on the trigger without wiggling another finger.

Here's the posts anyway for some info 👍🏻



Bonus note: with motion steering you can use the force feedback adjustments, I have fiddled with these quite a lot and found this to be the best all round setting:

Force feedback Max Torque - 4
This is for when cornering hard

Force feedback sensitivity - 3
This is for driving in a straight line, keeping the car stable and making minor adjustments, this also affects turn in understeer

View attachment 1333954View attachment 1333955


Also my other settings
View attachment 1333956View attachment 1333957View attachment 1333958
Force Feedback Sensitivity and Force Feedback Max Torque , I believe these parameters are just used for the steering wheels and not for the DS5
 
Rounding out the weekend with a nice improvement at RBR.

View attachment 1333860
Optimal is 1:45.976, which sounds enticing. To be honest, I'm surprised I'm doing this good here, I don't really feel that fast. In turns 5, 8 and 9 I am still very much in trial and error mode, sliding around wildly. It's great fun though. Have a nice week fellow time trialers!


Me neither, but luckily a few tenths is all you need ;) Maybe share a video to get some advice.
You are getting stupidly fast; clearly been at the djollie-juice. Well done.
 
This set-up blows my mind. SO different to what I've got mapped out on mine! Granted, I'm not using motion steering, but my button layout is so different it's like night and day! Literally the ONLY button we've got mapped the same is the handbrake! (And the Share/Pause defaults).

I'm a weirdo who has pedal controls on the right stick and steering on the left stick, gear up/down R2/L2...

I keep thinking about changing my button setup to have pedal controls on R2/L2 - do you find trail braking is easy with this set-up? I can do it with my set-up but find throttle balancing can be pretty hit/miss when combined with trail braking due to the fact it's one or the other when using the joystick.
It's definitely much easier using the triggers to accelerate and brake as you can stay slightly on throttle when braking to stabilise some cars better on corner entry, plus it doesn't hurt your thumb after so long playing.

I have square mapped as my 'overtake' because my thumb is usually sat hovering over this so if I have a car with that it doesn't strain my thumb constantly keeping hold of it.
 
@Pesselles

If you want to use manual gears on a controller, I suggest using the L1 for up shift and R1 for down shift to reduce the amount of work each paw hand does. Using your left hand for steering, braking AND down shifting is too difficult.
Thanks for your advice, I'll test this combination very soon.

@Pesselles here is what I posted some time ago in this thread, it is about the DS4 but I'm sure you could find similar for the Dual Sense without having to get the expensive Sony controller.

I use motion steering and the back buttons but as per what @ScottPuss20 says, I have the back buttons set opposite to triggers.

R2 - accelerate
Right button - downshift
L2 - brake
Left button - upshift

It makes it easier to trail brake as you use your right hand to down shift at the same time as using you left hand to brake, meaning you can keep the same pressure on the trigger without wiggling another finger.

Here's the posts anyway for some info 👍🏻



Bonus note: with motion steering you can use the force feedback adjustments, I have fiddled with these quite a lot and found this to be the best all round setting:

Force feedback Max Torque - 4
This is for when cornering hard

Force feedback sensitivity - 3
This is for driving in a straight line, keeping the car stable and making minor adjustments, this also affects turn in understeer

View attachment 1333954View attachment 1333955


Also my other settings
View attachment 1333956View attachment 1333957View attachment 1333958
WOW, that's..... an encyclopedia!!!
I'll also test this configuration, because.... why not!! If it's comfortable to me to shift gears, I'll adopt it.


Speaking about my plan to swtich from AT to MT, I received many answers, many advices, many help from you guys. Incredible.
Yesterday, you were awesome (except @crome and his 6 ⭐ ticket).
Today, you are simply exceptional.

See you tomorrow!
 
Force Feedback Sensitivity and Force Feedback Max Torque , I believe these parameters are just used for the steering wheels and not for the DS5
A lot of people say that it only works on steering wheels, but it also affects motion sense steering.

If you set them both to 10 and drive the Tomahawk in a straight line and move a slight bit it will direct you straight to Barry R but if you adjust them both to 1 and try again you can drive straight with no problem.

It's also noticable in front wheel drive cars like the Civic when entering a corner, set to 10 you get drastic understeer but set low like mine you get a smooth turn in.

As you can see in my other pic, my controller sensitivity setting is always on 10, I never change that.

I don't think these settings work for left analog stick steering, but I don't use that so haven't tried that out.
 
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It's definitely much easier using the triggers to accelerate and brake as you can stay slightly on throttle when braking to stabilise some cars better on corner entry, plus it doesn't hurt your thumb after so long playing.

I have square mapped as my 'overtake' because my thumb is usually sat hovering over this so if I have a car with that it doesn't strain my thumb constantly keeping hold of it.
I have overtake mapped as L3 - can accelerate and jam overtake in the same press - but it does get pretty sore on the old thumb after a while, I'll admit!
 
A lot of people say that it only works on steering wheels, but it also affects motion sense steering.

If you set them both to 10 and drive the Tomahawk in a straight line and move a slight bit it will direct you straight to Barry R but if you adjust them both to 1 and try again you can drive straight with no problem.

It's also noticable in front wheel drive cars like the Civic when entering a corner, set to 10 you get drastic understeer but set low like mine you get a smooth turn in.

As you can see in my other pic, my controller sensitivity setting is always on 10, I never change that.

I don't think these settings work for left analog stick steering, but I don't use that so haven't tried that out.
I will try today when I come home from work what you say with Tomahawk how it feels. I learn something new every day.

Regarding controller sensitivity on 10 always, I actually had it on 10 for very long time, maybe a year and few months, then I couldn't really turn in how I wanted on some TT, think it was red bull junior on Atlanta, but I might remember wrong, so I started playing with sensitivity settings, and listen to this, in some TTs , car actually turns in better when I lower sensitivity, I couldn't believe it myself, there was just no logic, I thought if it's 10 then it should be most sensitive to my hand movements, I am steering with motion sensor steering, but after I tested it on several TTs I actually now play with steering sensitivity every single TT. Sometimes it works better with high number, sometimes with low number, I have no explanation but I can recommend whoever is on motion sensor steering and example can't get SF23 turn in quickly enough on Suzuka as example, to play with settings until you find it which ones works best, it can be lowering from 10 to 2, sometimes to 4, sometimes to 6 and car will turn in better. Just my two cents.

Aren't you on half sourly's leaderboard? I think I only see one icon for motion steering?
 
I have overtake mapped as L3 - can accelerate and jam overtake in the same press - but it does get pretty sore on the old thumb after a while, I'll admit!
Had mine mapped this way. I used it grinding the glitched Tomahawk at Tokyo.
Not very long into the grind, the left thumb stick on my dualsense started to drift.
Im not sure if the constant usage of L3 as the overtake caused it, but I would suggest not using L3 just for peace of mind.
 
Had only a few laps in this morning because i had to leave quite early for work appointment, kind of a sloppy session but was surprised i had these optimums this fast, totally not concentrated, stressed out because of work.... bad mental state..

Then maby tomorrow or something when i hopefully are less stressed i'll prob won't hit a thing :lol: :lol: :lol:

Would be nice to hit a .3xx tho!

18e0838a2e030-screenshotUrl.jpg
 
Had mine mapped this way. I used it grinding the glitched Tomahawk at Tokyo.
Not very long into the grind, the left thumb stick on my dualsense started to drift.
Im not sure if the constant usage of L3 as the overtake caused it, but I would suggest not using L3 just for peace of mind.
Wouldn't this be the case for any button, in the long run? Sustained use of any particular button has the possibility to cause issues for the contacts. That said, it's not unreasonable to think the sticks might be more sensitive to mechanical wear. Which button did you end up using instead?
 
Wouldn't this be the case for any button, in the long run? Sustained use of any particular button has the possibility to cause issues for the contacts. That said, it's not unreasonable to think the sticks might be more sensitive to mechanical wear. Which button did you end up using instead?
I assume the L3/R3 is not meant to held in that position for prolonged periods as it causes movement of the sensor in the potentiometer.
Scroll to page 11 here for an explanation: (not my document)


I now use L1 on controller and R2 on the G29.
 
I assume the L3/R3 is not meant to held in that position for prolonged periods as it causes movement of the sensor in the potentiometer.
Scroll to page 11 here for an explanation: (not my document)


I now use L1 on controller and R2 on the G29.
Is there similar article for DualSense, I can feel sometimes that my gyro sensor gets misaligned somehow, and instead of keeping it completely horizontal to drive completely straight, I need to tilt it a bit? Strange.
 
Is there similar article for DualSense, I can feel sometimes that my gyro sensor gets misaligned somehow, and instead of keeping it completely horizontal to drive completely straight, I need to tilt it a bit? Strange.
Not sure about any articles related to the gyro sensors.
I came across that article a while back when I started having issues with stick drift.

Respect to you and all those using motion steering. I tried it and all I can say is that is a skill set that I will never obtain :lol:
 
In the conversation regarding gear up and down, for what it's worth I use:

Gear up - ╳
Gear down - □

The right thumb is basically resting and hoovering above those two buttons so it feels very natural and easy. If I recall correctly that's the default setup. But I suppose that's a habitual thing as well.
 
Had mine mapped this way. I used it grinding the glitched Tomahawk at Tokyo.
Not very long into the grind, the left thumb stick on my dualsense started to drift.
Im not sure if the constant usage of L3 as the overtake caused it, but I would suggest not using L3 just for peace of mind.
Even though the Edge controllers (or other "pro") might look a bit expensive, I really like the backside buttons for this very reason.
I have an easy mapping for back left = L3 / back right = R3 because many games do like to use these buttons and I find it much easier to not use the thumbs. Seriously not wanting to have it any other way any more.
A different mapping for back left = UP / back right = DOWN for some other games (like R6 Extraction)
 
I feel like motion control steering would kill my shoulders and arms. lol...having to hold the controller up and rotating it for long periods.

But if we're talking about someone getting accustomed to MT from AT, it probably would be a good idea not to also introduce a new steering method into the mix at the same time.
 
When I tackled the GV TT in the Ford Roadster last week I could feel from the beginning that I would be having a lot of fun. I got a quick bronze at my first lap and the speed of improvement was there as I quickly followed another short stint with a high silver (1:20.7xx) and, surprisingly, a low silver only a couple of tenths off gold (1:20.447), so I told myself ... hell boy, go grab that gold and rub it all over your brother's face (another GT7 newbie like me)... so I persevered and got my 1st gold TT!!! (1:19.959 I think it's a safe gold anyway). What a combo, the GV and the Ford Roadster are a total blast!!!!

photo_2024-03-04_14-07-12.jpg


I'm ecstatic as I my previous attempts where 5 bronzes and a sole silver, so I feel I'm improving in terms of speed and, more importantly, consistency. In roughly 1 hour of driving time I was looking at my 1st gold :D:D

Last weekend I put some work on the RBR TT with the Lancer Evo IX and, although I'm not being as fast as on GV, I'm also enjoying the handling of the car and the circuit combo (as a newbie I don't have that many miles on previous RBR TTs ;))
I've made up some gains from my bronze times and now sit with a silver-graded PB of 1:48.613 down from 1:49.200 and 1:49.748. I don't know if I will be able to scratch an additional 0.7 to reach gold as I made no improvement over my current PB on the last stint yesterday morning and couldn't even replicate times close to my PB consistently, but if I have time next weekend, I'll go back and try again.

photo_2024-03-04_14-07-14.jpg


I'm finding these TTs addictive!!! :cool:

Thanks everybody for your inputs, help, and sane competitiveness. Oh, yeah, having fun while reading you all on this 'community' is also one the bright spots of these TTs. :dopey:
 
I normally leave these until quite late on (I like the screenshots without times for the articles) but I thought I'd have a crack at the Roadster/Grand Valley one.

That's a distinctly unpleasant car to drive, but hopefully a 1'19.887 after four laps (on pad) is enough margin!
 
I feel like motion control steering would kill my shoulders and arms. lol...having to hold the controller up and rotating it for long periods.

But if we're talking about someone getting accustomed to MT from AT, it probably would be a good idea not to also introduce a new steering method into the mix at the same time.
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Mate... I am 56 years old, went through a lot in life... If I can drive this many laps on motion sensor I am sure you can do it too.
 
I assume the L3/R3 is not meant to held in that position for prolonged periods as it causes movement of the sensor in the potentiometer.
Scroll to page 11 here for an explanation: (not my document)


I now use L1 on controller and R2 on the G29.
That makes sense. Are the regular buttons less likely to experience damage due to prolonged use?

View attachment 1334019
Mate... I am 56 years old, went through a lot in life... If I can drive this many laps on motion sensor I am sure you can do it too.
Wow!!! Why would you ever want to drive that many laps of that awful circuit in the first place?!
 
That makes sense. Are the regular buttons less likely to experience damage due to prolonged use?


Wow!!! Why would you ever want to drive that many laps of that awful circuit in the first place?!
Well, I was P22 and I still had few miliseconds in times in delta, so that motivated me, beside I find it huge fun :) ended that TT being P23, yeah on motion steering.
 
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Mate... I am 56 years old, went through a lot in life... If I can drive this many laps on motion sensor I am sure you can do it too.
Respect. That's what it takes. I've put in countless. Literally countless laps in the past few days. I have a little time away from work and I'm taking advantage. It's so fun when you get to the very very nuanced part of being fast. The stuff that gets you into the top 500 is really where it gets surgical. It's super fun to know you have it in you to go faster than you are but it's just a matter of lining the puzzle pieces up so you see it. This stuff is so good for my brain. Cheers. Especially on motion sense. That's just mad.
 
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