GT3 World Tier Championship Series Season 1 For PS4 ( (antisocial lounge))

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Ill be on at 8:30 am at Silverstone practicing if anyone wants to join. If anybody wants to qualify also thats fine to. Im ready for another practice race to. That was fun!!! One thing ive noticed with the AI is that they really can be a joy to drive with. As long as they detect that your there and you can tell by a slight swerve they do away from you when your close, as long as you give them room, they will give you room. Ive had some close racing with the AI here lately. Im trying to be a better driver in traffic and this is a great way to learn. I was at Donington racing gt3 with 20 AI. Started 10th and stayed clean most of the race. I play at 80% difficulty and try to make precise and clean passes. Im trying to figure out there avoidance system or in other words, how they know your there. Sudden moves on them seem to end poorly. But if the detection system sees you, they do well.
 
I ran a 2:05.5 on Silverstone in the Mc Laren. I'm ranked 205th in the world

I did a 2:04.5 last night in the Mclaren....That's why i asked about if the time was GT3 or GT4....I'm on the pace! :D
 
I made a list on the main thread it's a couple post back now. This thread is mostly for venting and when people get bored.

Thanks @ozwheels but still not sure where it is lol!! All the same can you add me to the list? Will there be a lobby for qualifying today?
 
Hey oz, When your tuning, Isnt it true that usually it only takes small adjustments to get that big difference? And you only tune one part at a time right? Ive been studing that tuning guide that someone put up.
 
Hey oz, When your tuning, Isnt it true that usually it only takes small adjustments to get that big difference? And you only tune one part at a time right? Ive been studing that tuning guide that someone put up.
First of all whenever you see tuning guides make sure they have credibility behind them. That guide that was posted is a good starting point but the damper section is very very dumbed down and won't really help you.

A big misconception about tuning - making something stiffer reduces weight transfer. This is false. The only things that affect how much weight transfers are total weight, center of gravity location, and track width/wheel base. In pCars we can't change 2 of those so all you have is ride height and weight bias (mostly just front to back) to adjust cog location.

Keep in mind tuning suspension is all about weight transfer. A stiffer spring, roll bar or damper will transfer weight faster in the direction the weight is moving. This is because the weight reaches a steady state faster because it has less distance to travel. So if you stiffen the front springs and your turning left, weight will transfer more quickly to the right resulting in more understeer. Why does this create understeer? Tires work the best when the axel their on is evenley loaded. While cornering this means we want to keep weight on the inside wheel as long as possible. As an example if car A turns left and the front right wheel has 300lbs on it and the front left wheel has 150lbs on it the car will have less grip than car B which has 250lbs on the right and 200lbs on the left. This is because car B has its weight more evenley distributed between the 2 wheels. The same concept apples to the rear wheels as well. When you soften something in the suspension this is effectively what your trying to accomplish, more evenley load distribution. This doesn't mean go full soft on everything because the extra body roll has to be considered among other things.

If you have trouble on corner entry or exit, I would adjust dampers first. This is because dampers react quicker to weight transfer than springs and roll bars. Be warned dampers are by far the most misunderstood part of tuning and require a lot of time to fully understand. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/shocktune1.html

Steady state cornering or cornering where the weight transfer is complete (the middle bit) is controlled by springs and roll bars since no weight is moving dampers can't react. Note that not all corners will have a steady state.

If you have a lot of front grip but not much rear grip don't try to take away front grip to compensate for the rear. Always try to add grip on the end of the car that has less. Usually this means softening something.

Back to the original question :). I wouldn't say small adjustments make a big difference, unless we're talking about aerodynamics. If your trying to learn and understand what a certain adjustment does you may need to make a big change so the effect is clear. You should only adjust one thing at a time unless you are familiar with tuning, then you may be able to adjust multiple things at once since you know what the effects will be.

It's better to ask questions and understand why what does what than just what does what.
 
That is a good post Oz.

I need to get my head around tuning. I'm from GT tuning school, where it is all seemingly backwards! I have not yet adjusted the suspension on cars yet, only making small adjustments to the tyre pressure so far. I've manage to get the GT4 car a little more as I would like around Silverstone, but have not touched the dampers or springs yet. I have managed a fairly competitive time in the Aston GT4, but there is more out there for sure.
 
First of all whenever you see tuning guides make sure they have credibility behind them. That guide that was posted is a good starting point but the damper section is very very dumbed down and won't really help you.

A big misconception about tuning - making something stiffer reduces weight transfer. This is false. The only things that affect how much weight transfers are total weight, center of gravity location, and track width/wheel base. In pCars we can't change 2 of those so all you have is ride height and weight bias (mostly just front to back) to adjust cog location.

Keep in mind tuning suspension is all about weight transfer. A stiffer spring, roll bar or damper will transfer weight faster in the direction the weight is moving. This is because the weight reaches a steady state faster because it has less distance to travel. So if you stiffen the front springs and your turning left, weight will transfer more quickly to the right resulting in more understeer. Why does this create understeer? Tires work the best when the axel their on is evenley loaded. While cornering this means we want to keep weight on the inside wheel as long as possible. As an example if car A turns left and the front right wheel has 300lbs on it and the front left wheel has 150lbs on it the car will have less grip than car B which has 250lbs on the right and 200lbs on the left. This is because car B has its weight more evenley distributed between the 2 wheels. The same concept apples to the rear wheels as well. When you soften something in the suspension this is effectively what your trying to accomplish, more evenley load distribution. This doesn't mean go full soft on everything because the extra body roll has to be considered among other things.

If you have trouble on corner entry or exit, I would adjust dampers first. This is because dampers react quicker to weight transfer than springs and roll bars. Be warned dampers are by far the most misunderstood part of tuning and require a lot of time to fully understand. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/shocktune1.html

Steady state cornering or cornering where the weight transfer is complete (the middle bit) is controlled by springs and roll bars since no weight is moving dampers can't react. Note that not all corners will have a steady state.

If you have a lot of front grip but not much rear grip don't try to take away front grip to compensate for the rear. Always try to add grip on the end of the car that has less. Usually this means softening something.

Back to the original question :). I wouldn't say small adjustments make a big difference, unless we're talking about aerodynamics. If your trying to learn and understand what a certain adjustment does you may need to make a big change so the effect is clear. You should only adjust one thing at a time unless you are familiar with tuning, then you may be able to adjust multiple things at once since you know what the effects will be.

It's better to ask questions and understand why what does what than just what does what.
Thank you oz. Yeah, I've got some things that I've got to get my head wrapped around. Thanks for the informative reply.
 
Is it worth changing setup until your really have a good solid idea of what your best time is? I only ask as you may make changes to your setup that are actually worse but if you start taking better lines/braking spots you will see a better lap time and assume its cos of the setup, potentially.... Please tell me if I'm chatting rubish :)
 
Is it worth changing setup until your really have a good solid idea of what your best time is? I only ask as you may make changes to your setup that are actually worse but if you start taking better lines/braking spots you will see a better lap time and assume its cos of the setup, potentially.... Please tell me if I'm chatting rubish :)
If you aren't comfortable tuning then yes you should get a solid baseline to compare too.
 
Did a race with Zak. Spooky, mc ... Did my best ever on Silverstone 2:12 but only 2:13 in practice

How come I can be faster racing clean than practicing ?
 
Did a race with Zak. Spooky, mc ... Did my best ever on Silverstone 2:12 but only 2:13 in practice

How come I can be faster racing clean than practicing ?

I find the same thing, I get what I think is my best time and then smash it in the race.

Might be mental, when it's the race you're not concentrating on time so much. Plus remember if you're behind someone you'll get a tow on the straights if your within a second so you'll go a bit quicker.
 
Did a race with Zak. Spooky, mc ... Did my best ever on Silverstone 2:12 but only 2:13 in practice

How come I can be faster racing clean than practicing ?
What fight said.^^ The track gets more rubber laid down the longer the session. As far as race compared to practice I'm not sure if the rubber carries over from practice or it starts at a set amount for the race.
 
Have this massive problem with my T300 Rs pedals.
Don't have a rig so I have them under my desk.
Every time I brake they almost tip over, making me afraid of braking too hard, resulting me in having too much speed into the corners and going off.
Only way for me is to coast into the corners before braking. It's impossible to be competetive driving like this.

I did not have this problem in the first race we did on Silverstone which is odd.
I did change wheel and force feedback settings a few days later tho, which must be why this has started to happen.

Any tips guys? I have the pedals against the wall so that they don't slide forwards but it doesn't help against the tipping of the pedals.
 
Have this massive problem with my T300 Rs pedals.
Don't have a rig so I have them under my desk.
Every time I brake they almost tip over, making me afraid of braking too hard, resulting me in having too much speed into the corners and going off.
Only way for me is to coast into the corners before braking. It's impossible to be competetive driving like this.

I did not have this problem in the first race we did on Silverstone which is odd.
I did change wheel and force feedback settings a few days later tho, which must be why this has started to happen.

Any tips guys? I have the pedals against the wall so that they don't slide forwards but it doesn't help against the tipping of the pedals.

I would try and brace either side using a triangular frame, that butts up to the wall and fixes to the front of the pedals, preventing them coming up. For ease it could be made out of wood.

Think like the T500 pedals, but with a piece to strengthen the frame each side, as it would be made of wood.

You just need to be able to attach something to the front of the pedals, that also pushes on the wall when you press.

Does that make sense?
 
Have this massive problem with my T300 Rs pedals.
Don't have a rig so I have them under my desk.
Every time I brake they almost tip over, making me afraid of braking too hard, resulting me in having too much speed into the corners and going off.
Only way for me is to coast into the corners before braking. It's impossible to be competetive driving like this.

I did not have this problem in the first race we did on Silverstone which is odd.
I did change wheel and force feedback settings a few days later tho, which must be why this has started to happen.

Any tips guys? I have the pedals against the wall so that they don't slide forwards but it doesn't help against the tipping of the pedals.
I don't know what is available on the pedals for attachment but if you mounted them to a simple plywood frame with a bottom piece slightly bigger than than the pedals and another piece at 90 degrees to that, that would on the front and parallel the wall, for $10 you'd be all set. Any pressure you put on the pedals would force them into the wall and the part that goes up the wall should prevent them from tipping. Grab some of those stick on pads from the dollar store to prevent damaging the wall.
 
As I have to stay at my moms place till the end of next week (she's on vacation and I have to baby sit :D ), is it possible to send in a screenshot of my time trail time I put down last week for qualification?!
 
If anyone is up for a race today in GT3 add me Bishop_GP.

Let me know who's interested and give me your psn ID and I'll invite you in.

I plan to start at 4PM UK time.
 
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