CREDIT GRIND - WTC 600 Tokyo Express - Glitches are Dead.

  • Thread starter Grimm6Jack
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I'm always curious to figure out the theoretical most efficient strategies, and this one is the best i've come up with. I figure it might be an inspirational jumping off point for someone else to improve on.
I totally agree!!
You've inspired me...

Full race time: 22.49xx

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You may notice that my fastest lap is not quicker than yours. That's because I've gone for a hybrid solution, which seems slightly faster overall, even with a top speed of only 230km/hr on the straight.

- Since wall riding is fashionable the rear downforce can be reduced and the resulting reduction in power (to meet the PP restriction) saves fuel. I don't see any benefit having more available engine power if you have to reduce it during the race.

- Similarly I've used the Racing transmission to increase efficiency and removed the turbo to recover PP (since we need to avoid high revs anyway for fuel saving).

- With this strategy you can complete 7 full laps on the initial tank of fuel on FM1 (overall saving approx 2 laps of fuel) = approximately 5 seconds saved in the pit stop.

- By pitting at the end of the 7th lap (after lapping the field on lap 6) you are sufficiently ahead of the field to come out still 1 lap in front, which means no more interference until lap 10/11, when you lap them them all again.

- Also lowered the ride height fully and adjusted the diff settings, which seems to be slightly more fuel efficient and also slightly faster.

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Oh, and regarding wheels; returned to standard rim width and offset which saved appropriately 3 PP; bring on the walls!

Edit: Getting exactly 600.00 PP is extremely satisfying for my OCD :cheers:
 
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So It looks like now you have to be super careful around walls and other cars or you not gonna get the clean race bonus. Do we know what exactly triggers bonus removal?
 
So It looks like now you have to be super careful around walls and other cars or you not gonna get the clean race bonus. Do we know what exactly triggers bonus removal?
It's been like this for a while now. It's basically any contact with AI cars.
 
So It looks like now you have to be super careful around walls and other cars or you not gonna get the clean race bonus. Do we know what exactly triggers bonus removal?
Yes, we do know. As noted a bunch of times in this thread, you can hit all the walls you want, the walls don’t matter. Just don’t hit the AI drivers, or cross the solid white lines on either side of the hairpin turn before the long straight.
 
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I totally agree!!
You've inspired me...

Full race time: 22.49xx

View attachment 1227678

You may notice that my fastest lap is not quicker than yours. That's because I've gone for a hybrid solution, which seems slightly faster overall, even with a top speed of only 230km/hr on the straight.

- Since wall riding is fashionable the rear downforce can be reduced and the resulting reduction in power (to meet the PP restriction) saves fuel. I don't see any benefit having more available engine power if you have to reduce it during the race.

- Similarly I've used the Racing transmission to increase efficiency and removed the turbo to recover PP (since we need to avoid high revs anyway for fuel saving).

- With this strategy you can complete 7 full laps on the initial tank of fuel on FM1 (overall saving approx 2 laps of fuel) = approximately 5 seconds saved in the pit stop.

- By pitting at the end of the 7th lap (after lapping the field on lap 6) you are sufficiently ahead of the field to come out still 1 lap in front, which means no more interference until lap 10/11, when you lap them them all again.

- Also lowered the ride height fully and adjusted the diff settings, which seems to be slightly more fuel efficient and also slightly faster.

View attachment 1227679
Oh, and regarding wheels; returned to standard rim width and offset which saved appropriately 3 PP; bring on the walls!

Edit: Getting exactly 600.00 PP is extremely satisfying for my OCD :cheers:
marginally!😬😆
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Nice work!!! Is the Escudo faster than the Cappiccino?? I'm finally back in the 24:20's after updating my Fanatec firmware, I forgot that I made some tuning adjustments on my wheel menu that apparently caused the Cappicinno to be quite a handful, it drives much nicer now.

Yes, it's easily 1 minute faster than the Rotorccino from the times I've seen. My best with the Rotoccino has been a high 23:50s.

I'll try the Escudo setup tomorrow. Since I ran out of credits and still have a few cars to buy again and tune, I'll need to grind this race a few more times.

I'll also post the settings in the OP and a video if it helps later.
 
Yes, it's easily 1 minute faster than the Rotorccino from the times I've seen. My best with the Rotoccino has been a high 23:50s.

I'll try the Escudo setup tomorrow. Since I ran out of credits and still have a few cars to buy again and tune, I'll need to grind this race a few more times.

I'll also post the settings in the OP and a video if it helps later.
How are you going 23:50's in the Rotoccino, are you wall riding?
 
How are you going 23:50's in the Rotoccino, are you wall riding?

It was a long time ago, it was by november IIRC, and yes, I think I did a few wall-riding runs once I knew I could go faster. But it wasn't leaps and bounds faster than without wall riding.
 
Just ran my own tune for Escudo here for the first time today. Based on Mudda Chod tune above but different suspension settings, a tad less ballast weight and tweaked downforce to meet PP limit. Cranked it to FM6 before taking control and went WOT down the straight at the beginning. Overtook up to 6th or 7th place on the right (can’t remember exactly but saw the gap where I had room) then cut across left in the gap to ride the wall on the first turn and slingshot past everyone else to take 1st and never looked back. No worry about losing CRB by hitting AI this way as they’re now all behind and no chance of catching up. Ended up no stopping with 5% left to spare at the end.
 
Just ran my own tune for Escudo here for the first time today. Based on Mudda Chod tune above but different suspension settings, a tad less ballast weight and tweaked downforce to meet PP limit. Cranked it to FM6 before taking control and went WOT down the straight at the beginning. Overtook up to 6th or 7th place on the right (can’t remember exactly but saw the gap where I had room) then cut across left in the gap to ride the wall on the first turn and slingshot past everyone else to take 1st and never looked back. No worry about losing CRB by hitting AI this way as they’re now all behind and no chance of catching up. Ended up no stopping with 5% left to spare at the end.
????

The problem isn’t passing them on the initial straight. It’s when you lap them twice! What was your time? We are under 23 minutes, which means we’re finishing two laps ahead of the AI.

Also why did you go to FM6? The car can make it with one pit stop at FM1.
 
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????

The problem isn’t passing them on the initial straight. It’s when you lap them twice! What was your time? We are under 23 minutes, which means we’re finishing two laps ahead of the AI.

Also why did you go to FM6? The car can make it with one pit stop at FM1.
I was wondering the same about tangling with AI. I use the Capuccino and easily get to 1st before T1 without wall riding, start lapping cars on L7, CRB comes under threat when lapping AI.
 
How I handle the lapping with Cappuccino:
1. Difficulty at hard because potentially a few less to lap and the speed difference a little less intimidating when doing so
2. Only lap cars on main straight or turns 5, 6, 7, 8 (my personal favorite is taking the outside on turn 5 and then the tight inside to turn 6 under the bridge, AI always takes a very wide line to turn 6)
3. Rather lose a few seconds staying behind than going for it instantly
 
How I handle the lapping with Cappuccino:
1. Difficulty at hard because potentially a few less to lap and the speed difference a little less intimidating when doing so
2. Only lap cars on main straight or turns 5, 6, 7, 8 (my personal favorite is taking the outside on turn 5 and then the tight inside to turn 6 under the bridge, AI always takes a very wide line to turn 6)
3. Rather lose a few seconds staying behind than going for it instantly
It seems that there is a speed differential required to cause you to lose the CRB, I bumped the rear of an AI over the weekend and thought for sure I had lost the CRB, still got it though. It seems like if it's not hard enough to cause damage you won't lose CRB.
 
It seems that there is a speed differential required to cause you to lose the CRB, I bumped the rear of an AI over the weekend and thought for sure I had lost the CRB, still got it though. It seems like if it's not hard enough to cause damage you won't lose CRB.
That’s one of the things that make it so frustrating. There’s no way to know whether you lost the CRB or not. Just absolutely unforgivably atrocious game design on Polyphony’s part. Lazy and careless.
 
It's not really a big thing for me. If for some reason I lose CRB when lapping, then it still makes more sense to finish the race at that stage than start over. A few well chosen words at the price screen and on to the next one.

Staying well clear of AI only costs at most 30 seconds or so during the race, and that 30 seconds I am willing to spend.
 
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I've been tweaking the car tune a bit but it seems like the most I can manage is a flat 23:00. Either my setup needs some changes or I'm not wall-riding correctly. For reference, my top speed on the main straight is about 330-340 kph.
 
I've been tweaking the car tune a bit but it seems like the most I can manage is a flat 23:00. Either my setup needs some changes or I'm not wall-riding correctly. For reference, my top speed on the main straight is about 330-340 kph.
I find that having very specific ratio settings for 3rd and 4th gear is pretty important for maintaining good speed through certain turns.

You also have to enter them perfectly to not lose a ton of speed on impact. For example, the right turn after the hard S turn has a trick to it - you actually want to angle the car into the wall a tiny bit. The wall geometry at the entrance to that turn is widening, so the optimal impact angle is actually pointing away from the direction of that turn a very slight amount.
 
AMG GT Black series
(was asked to repost here coz it’s a glitched tune)

race time: 24:35 (2 stops, no wall ride)
fastest lap: 1:54


Thanks for the video, I gave it a shot. After the first stop I went FM6 but I was averaging 2min laps at the beginning. I think I could probably do FM3 with two stops and get a better overall, the PR was the last lap on FM1. Definitely feels a lot more controllable than the A220 glitched tune.
 

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Thanks for the video, I gave it a shot. After the first stop I went FM6 but I was averaging 2min laps at the beginning. I think I could probably do FM3 with two stops and get a better overall, the PR was the last lap on FM1. Definitely feels a lot more controllable than the A220 glitched tune.
definitely more driveable than A220. you can do FM1 all the way, no need to save fuel.
 
definitely more driveable than A220. you can do FM1 all the way, no need to save fuel.
Had another go at it with FM1 but I think I need to be a little bit more careful exiting out of corners, the rear tires can get worn down quick when it's dry.
 

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I haven't been home for a few days, so haven't been able to try the AMG for myself. So I'll ask: are the intermediates better compared to sports softs when the track is dry? Considering both grip levels and tyre wear.
 
Just to confirm, the race bonus is gone and you can wall ride so total time should be faster since no more penalty?
 
Just to confirm, the race bonus is gone and you can wall ride so total time should be faster since no more penalty?
The Clean Race Bonus is not gone, it is still there, just don’t hit other cars with enough force to cause damage and you’ll get it as far as I can tell. I’ve had light contact with AI and still gotten the CRB, but when the contact is significant and damage is done it wipes out the CRB.
You can wall ride to your hearts content without incurring penalties for it.
 
I haven't been home for a few days, so haven't been able to try the AMG for myself. So I'll ask: are the intermediates better compared to sports softs when the track is dry? Considering both grip levels and tyre wear.
You read my mind. I want to experiment with tires on that tune later in the race because the one time I tried, the IM tires wore out too early when the track dried out and had to change them after lap 11. I could maybe do a 7+5 strategy but was curious if I could do 6+6 with a different tire compound on the backend. Maybe I'll try it later today
 
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