GRAN TURISMO 7 - RADICAL SR3 SL 2013 ONE-MAKE SERIES - LOBBY SATURDAYS @ 7:30P.M. EASTERN STANDARD TIME

That was a fun race, I wish you would have told me that you were having "control" issues, by that point in the race I had accepted that I wasn't going to get the win and had slowed down. I think I also used up my tires trying to gain time on you by that point too. I also had problems with my wheel throughout the season, If you ever watch replays you might have noticed sometimes I downshift too the wrong gear or upshift way too early. My wheel downshift and upshifts on its own frequently, I have sent it back to Fanatec for under warranty to have it fixed but they said there was nothing wrong. My guess is that they didn't test it long enough, it will typically shift on its own probably once every 2 laps. I'm getting ready to order an F1 Podium (wish they had something other than an F1 wheel) against my own advice due to customer service issues but there are not a lot of choices out there that I am aware of. It was great fun racing with you, I'm going to need to find quite a bit of speed if I want to mix it up at the front. CW said that it was the wet Spa race that should have scarred us, I dont think I put a wheel wrong that entire race though. I struggled at Tokyo, I just couldn't find the lap time to stay on your bumper no matter what I did.
As a person of limited extra funding. This post here is part of reason I don't run out and buy a wheel. Prices around here for even a decent wheel in my area of world is around $230. I would expect paying that much for a fancy video game controller. It should reliable and last you for a few years at least. And yet I have read so many posts about malfunctioning wheels that leads me to believe that this is not case. A new DS4 only cost around $70 with tax included. Granted the DS4 is not the must durable long lasting product either. The sticks sensitivity goes to poo anywhere from a few months to year after purchase. Of which I use for steering. So I always buy a warranty just in case the controller goes quickly enough. That I can acquire another controller for only the purchase of any another warranty. Maybe if I believed. All I need to become skilled enough to compete professionally and make a living playing Gran Turismo. Purchasing a $230 wheel would be more appealing. Instead to me that's money better spent on eventually buying a PS5. Preferably now from dam scalpers.

With all that said. Should anyone wish to donate. I not above accepting free stuff. And I don't mean used malfunctioning piece of poo. Since I not handy enough to know how fix it. And would just end up sitting around my house collecting dust.
 
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As a person of limited extra funding. This post here is part of reason I don't run out and buy a wheel. Prices around here for even a decent wheel in my area of world is around $230. I would expect paying that much for a fancy video game controller. It should reliable and last you for a few years at least. And yet I have read so many posts about malfunctioning wheels that leads me to believe that this is not case. A new DS4 only cost around $70 with tax included. Granted the DS4 is not the must durable long lasting product either. The sticks sensitivity goes to poo anywhere from a few months to year after purchase. Of which I use for steering. So I always buy a warranty just in case the controller goes quickly enough. That I can acquire another controller for only the purchase of any another warranty. Maybe if I believed. All I need to become skilled enough to compete professionally and make a living playing Gran Turismo. Purchasing a $230 wheel would be more appealing. Instead to me that's money better spent on eventually buying a PS5. Preferably now from dam scalpers.

With all that said. Should anyone wish to donate. I not above accepting free stuff. And I don't mean used malfunctioning piece of poo. Since I not handy enough to know how fix it. And would just end up sitting around my house collecting dust.
I've had the same Thrustmaster T300RS since Gran Turismo 6 and with the exception of a dog chewing on the power cable, it still runs perfectly fine to this day. Only needed a firmware update once.
 
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I've had the same Thrustmaster T300RS since Gran Turismo 6 and with the exception of a dog chewing of a dog chewing on the power cable, it still runs perfectly fine to this day. Only needed a firmware update once.
We had once of our cats chew through our PS2 controller cords while my brother was playing.
 
@Cold Warrior No, it isn't PTSD. I was trying being goofy. I would agree with @fastone371 on this too. Spa was difficult but there is still plenty of room on the track and besides my missing a braking point and nudging fastone371 into the last chicane, I don't remember much else than going off due to watching cars in front instead of the racing line. After that, I couldn't catch back up to first and overdriving in the wet is really easy to do when you get agitated.

@Pigems I saw your 1,35.XXX lap just as I got to about 2 seconds from the top Ten. I'm realizing that my inputs are too quick and not as smooth as they used to be. Biggest problem being trail-braking all the way to the apex while maintaining highest speed possible and not scrubbing the front wheels due to too much entry speed. Even in online lobbies with much faster players, I am getting Purple Sector One Times at Laguna Seca but I lose almost 8/10ths of a second on the rest of the lap. I have a 1,35.5XX in me somewhere...

@The359 Thrustmaster, in my opinion, is possibly the best brand for "entry" level wheels. Been wanting to upgrade to the 300RS or higher for the feedback response but the T150 Pro has been working great for over two years and probably close to 150,000-200,000 Kilometers put on it. Only issues are losing the tactical click on the paddle shifters, which is fixable, and the pedal potentiometers getting carbon build up and not inputing correctly, which is also fixable.
 
@Cold Warrior No, it isn't PTSD. I was trying being goofy. I would agree with @fastone371 on this too. Spa was difficult but there is still plenty of room on the track and besides my missing a braking point and nudging fastone371 into the last chicane, I don't remember much else than going off due to watching cars in front instead of the racing line. After that, I couldn't catch back up to first and overdriving in the wet is really easy to do when you get agitated.

@Pigems I saw your 1,35.XXX lap just as I got to about 2 seconds from the top Ten. I'm realizing that my inputs are too quick and not as smooth as they used to be. Biggest problem being trail-braking all the way to the apex while maintaining highest speed possible and not scrubbing the front wheels due to too much entry speed. Even in online lobbies with much faster players, I am getting Purple Sector One Times at Laguna Seca but I lose almost 8/10ths of a second on the rest of the lap. I have a 1,35.5XX in me somewhere...

@The359 Thrustmaster, in my opinion, is possibly the best brand for "entry" level wheels. Been wanting to upgrade to the 300RS or higher for the feedback response but the T150 Pro has been working great for over two years and probably close to 150,000-200,000 Kilometers put on it. Only issues are losing the tactical click on the paddle shifters, which is fixable, and the pedal potentiometers getting carbon build up and not inputing correctly, which is also fixable.
Ok, now my brother sounds like he doesn't want to join. I'm sorry for the wasted post then.

Well we have weather and time change back with puddling effects now. Should make future plans fun.

Good luck tonight. Have fun everyone.
 
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I haven't planned on using rain. Only adjusting the weather to roughly imitate the tracks climate in real life. Brands was Cloudy but with a few laps of sun here and there. RBR will be similar or more cloudy with less sun.

We can vote on integrating rain races. However, I would set it to constant rain through the race. No guessing about pitstops to change tires. Don't want to get too serious with weather this season.
 
I haven't planned on using rain. Only adjusting the weather to roughly imitate the tracks climate in real life. Brands was Cloudy but with a few laps of sun here and there. RBR will be similar or more cloudy with less sun.

We can vote on integrating rain races. However, I would set it to constant rain through the race. No guessing about pitstops to change tires. Don't want to get too serious with weather this season.

We are using sports tires, so we really wouldn’t need to worry about pit stops as we already have treaded tires. Not that I’m advocating for rain though. 😂
 
I haven't planned on using rain. Only adjusting the weather to roughly imitate the tracks climate in real life. Brands was Cloudy but with a few laps of sun here and there. RBR will be similar or more cloudy with less sun.

We can vote on integrating rain races. However, I would set it to constant rain through the race. No guessing about pitstops to change tires. Don't want to get too serious with weather this season.
I ment for my future race plans. It's your league. Your choose if want to race under the lie that all races bright and sunny. Like the 24 hours of Daytona last year.
 
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Actually alot of people dont know the weather radar can be zoomed out to see 90 miles away.
Making seeing weather come in easy.
Depending on how fast u have the time settings.
 

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I ment for my future race plans. It's your league. Your choose if want to race under the lie that all races bright and sunny. Like the 24 hours of Daytona last year.
As far as the lie about only racing when it's not raining the majority of racing series do not race in the rain, so it's really not a lie. I personally do not need wet races to enjoy the game especially due to the fact it is a game. To me right now variable weather looks,like a huge mistake. Due to the compressed time in the game if it starts raining and you respond by pitting for wet tires the track may dry out completely before you even reach the pits again. That gives you 2 choices, pinball off of everything in sight while hydroplanning or lose massive time in the pits swapping tires over and over. Neither makes the game more interesting for me. Just sayin
 
As far as the lie about only racing when it's not raining the majority of racing series do not race in the rain, so it's really not a lie. I personally do not need wet races to enjoy the game especially due to the fact it is a game. To me right now variable weather looks,like a huge mistake. Due to the compressed time in the game if it starts raining and you respond by pitting for wet tires the track may dry out completely before you even reach the pits again. That gives you 2 choices, pinball off of everything in sight while hydroplanning or lose massive time in the pits swapping tires over and over. Neither makes the game more interesting for me. Just sayin
Then what major racing series are you watching. Even Nascar runs in the wet at road courses now days. Most racing series won't race in extreme conditions anymore. If the That's probably because someone realized in responsible.

Well I do intend use weather change in the future.
 
Then what major racing series are you watching. Even Nascar runs in the wet at road courses now days. Most racing series won't race in extreme conditions anymore. If the That's probably because someone realized in responsible.

Well I do intend use weather change in the future.
Only road course racing is done in the rain......sometimes, all other series cancel races when there is rain including the "feeder" series'. NASCAR only just started running in wet conditions but has talked about it for decades. Broaden your horizons a little.
 
Only road course racing is done in the rain......sometimes, all other series cancel races when there is rain including the "feeder" series'. NASCAR only just started running in wet conditions but has talked about it for decades. Broaden your horizons a little.
Broaden my horizon. What horizon do you watch. Not every race ran is only in a straight line for a quarter mile or 1,000 ft. I don't know about feeder series that aren't on TV but, most series I watch will race in the rain to some degree.

Nascar Cup, Xfinity, and Trucks will all race in rain now at road courses. IndyCar will race in the rain at road courses. IMSA, WEC, and F1 all will race in the rain. Maybe they don't race in the rain during a down pour anymore. Which just because they did it the past doesn't mean it was a good idea.
 
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@Pigems @The359 I have Pigems down for pole in both races but who had fastest laps? I was too busy looking at position deltas and didn't pay attention to the fastest lap. I haven't seen it listed in the Race End Timer Menu either.
In the second race, Pigems got fastest lap, then I set the exact same lap time later on, but the display still listed Pigems as having fastest lap. He got it first so I'd say its his.
 
What is everyone else's thought? Should points be awarded to more than one person for fastest lap if they record the exact same lap time? Should it go to the first person to acquire that time and not those after? Should no points be awarded for fastest lap and it be listed as a draw/null-and-void in such an occurrence?
 
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What is everyone else's thought? Should points be awarded to more than one person for fastest lap if they record the exact same lap time? Should it go to the first person to acquire that time and not those after? Should no points be awarded for fastest lap and it be listed as a draw/null-and-void in such an occurrence?
Most real racing series would give it to driver who posted it first. If you don't like that option. Then have you considered splitting the point. And give them both a half point. I would recommend checking the replay to confirm it first.
 
Well, The359 said to give it to Pigems since he recorded the lap time first. Haven't watched the replays yet, really off week. I really should though, to clarify this and figure out how I managed to run a few 1,35.XXX's when I was chasing The359.

I know that at the end, he was toying with me and slowing down to my pace when he could have very easily took off but in doing so allowed Pigems to close the gap and overtake me. It was then that The359 resumed race pace and took off with Pigems in chase. After that I lost my rhythm and couldn't stop looking back. Scooby and Wilso split me going up the hill into turn 2 and I out-braked myself which let them through. From 2nd to last in a single race...kept going off in turn 3 and getting 2 second penalties on the exit of turns 4 and 5. The last two turns gave a lot of penalties too but I saw some people get away with all 4 wheels off in many places. I wonder if track limits goes by the white edge line or if the rumble strips are included?

I've also noticed that if you abuse track limits, you can lift while getting back on track and then resume accelerating. The penalty doesn't always happen when I do that or sometimes a 2 second penalty might become a .5 second one. It might require downshifting or slight braking too...just some indication that you are trying to slow down and correct your error seems to work.
 
I'm happy to adjust to whatever. I was only able to make it for the Brands GP round so far, but x1 didn't seem to really affect things that much. Looking at Big Willow it might be a good track to try and test it out. I think the couple of long sweeping corners will give us the ability to really see how much they degrade. And with so few walls there isn't the threat of instant major damage, just slow driving to get back on line.
 
@Cold Warrior @fastone371 @Pigems @The359 @Endless-Wilso @Drex124 @Kermit_2142 @bloodyboyblue @Redneckchef

I was thinking about trying tire and fuel consumption at x3. That seemed to be the sweet spot for 30 minute races in G.T. Sport but I am not sure how it would work for the Radical.

What does everyone think about tire and fuel consumption at x1? Would anyone be interested in bumping it up for Rounds 5, 6, 7 and 8? Round 3 and 4 would stay at x1.
Unless you think the Radical has enough pace at any of these tracks to burn through it's fuel load in a 30 minute race. I would leave fuel and tires settings as is.
 
I’m down for more wear, let’s give it a shot. A mandatory drive through per race might mix things a up a bit too, not to change tires or anything, but just to add a bit more strategy.
 
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I’m down for more wear, let’s give it a shot. A mandatory drive through per race might mix things a up a bit too, not to change tires or anything, but just to add a bit more strategy.
He did say in a previous post he doesn't want pitting for this series. So I don't he is thinking that duration.
 
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