- 559

- Braunschweig, Germany
2 years ago i switched from A T300 to a CSL DD 8Nm. I was very disappointed the first 2-3 days, especially AC like you i could not feel the cars.Since I've had my CSL Fanatec 8nm i've really struggled with AC. Just cant get it feeling like how my TX did, which I know is very weird, in AMS2 and RF2 its transformed those games, totally, to the point AMS2 seems to me like a new game and dare i say it some of the cars FFB and feeling is sublime.
So last night i set my FFB in fanalab to 3.9 nm, similar to old TX. And its back again, AC feels like AC again.
This must be because surely i've been 4000hrs and 9 odd years playing AC on a TX and to much familiarity with lower forces.
Or is there more to it? What sort of DD wheels were available to average consumers 10 years ago? Was AC developed to work with TX type wheels? I don't know, all i know is AC feels like AC to me again now.
Anyone else use a CSL?
The problem is - With a T300 the goals always was to set the per car ffb as high as possible just under the "clipping line" That was a sweet spot and i was fine.
But with a DD wheel - forget it. Do not try to set the FFB as high as possible, because you can go far to high without risking any clipping. But by doing that you become very strong ffb, you will wrestle with the wheel and at the same time you loose all detailed feeling.
Try my settings for example and very important lower every per car ffb of any car you drive by minus 10 - 15 in comparsation what numbers you drive right now. Try than you should be fine after few days.
Then you´ll never want to go back. AC is a much greater experience with the DD wheel.
FANALAB / FANATEC
SEN AUTO
FFB 100
FFS PEAK
NDP 12 (If you like heavy wheel go higher)
NFR OFF
NIN OFF
INT 6
FEI 70 (to avoid spikes, you can try higher 80-90, but not less you might loose details)
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 50
ASSETTO
FFB 60
ALL THE REST 0 <-- The DD wheel do not need any fake effects. The game offers enough "natural" ones.
Enchanced understeer OFF
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