Assetto Corsa PC Mods General DiscussionPC 

  • Thread starter Paiky
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I felt like converting a random model from a random game through my Wheel Decide list and I got rFactor, I then used a 'Select Random' dropdown extension which chooses whatever is displayed in Explorer to choose a mod there. At first I got the Hammer which is one of the vanilla cars made by ISI, but when I looked at the model, I scrapped it immediately since it looked so ******* ugly to me, so I made another random roll and this time I got another ISI vehicle which is actually a downloadable one being a Formula 3 car based on the Dallara F306 made in 2006.

This open wheeler has a weird model structure obviously coming from rFactor since other than having the usual separate cockpits per LODs, it even contains some left over object files presumably from other ISI vehicles since they don't have any mapped textures on them. I had a hard time figuring out all of the correct object files for the F306, but once I sorted them all, it was all usually easy to convert the model to AC like any other rFactor mod almost. (Although when I usually separate rims from tires by first converting to poly then back to mesh, the tires become less detailed somehow, how can I make them smooth again? Not to mention the rims which in 3DSimEd have proper transparent alpha while outside of it they don't work at all instead)

But when it came to find skins for it, a problem aroused where I have 17 skins for it inside my rFactor copy, yet strangely only ******* 8 of them worked while the rest were only visible through 3DSimEd and nothing I tried could've made them work for AC since any program gave me errors about the file type being unrecognizeable, I even tried using a rfactor decrypter from Luigi Ariemma but still no luck sadly. So if any of you happen to have skins for it which do tend to work flawlessly, send them all to me via PM so that I can hopefully complete the collection of Formula 3 liveries for this little gem I guess.
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Thanks, but I want to avoid j2k if I possibly can - it's given me trouble in the past, and the fewer apps running, the better.



Yeah, that's what I'm trying to do.

Edit:
I *think* I've cracked it. The option to map additional controls to the same function was greyed out until I clicked the 'Combine with keyboard' tickbox in the top left. This seems to free up the option to map the sequential in tandem with the paddles. Seems to work so long as I keep the tick box ticked.
Woo, as they say, hoo. Another ambiguous CM puzzle solved - add it to the Rosetta Stone.
:)

View attachment 961678
Further testing seems to indicate that this works without creating any issues. Very happy to have one profile for all three shifting types now, and I can even flip between paddles and sequential seamlessly out on the track.
@Fanapryde, if this is all you are using j2k for, give it a go. It's one less app running in the background.
(although I suspect you use it to map button boxes etc?)
 
Further testing seems to indicate that this works without creating any issues. Very happy to have one profile for all three shifting types now, and I can even flip between paddles and sequential seamlessly out on the track.
@Fanapryde, if this is all you are using j2k for, give it a go. It's one less app running in the background.
(although I suspect you use it to map button boxes etc?)
Indeed, for button boxes as well as for other sims. J2K is indispensable for me.
Never had any issues with it btw.
 
I downloaded the updated Lancer Evo X posted some pages ago and found many things not properly made (visually) in classic Assettogarage style. I decided to updated a bit: I changed shaders, added AO on body and plastic parts (Rim mapping is messed up and it dosen't let you get AO), added the right TxMap on body, removed rim blur (not needed anymore), deleted unnecessary files from skin folders (you should delete the old one and then download this one otherwise you won't get Ao on preexisting skins), made a csp config for paint, exterior plastic, glass and interiors plastic (not full pbrd but now it's a bit better inside) and redownloaded the fm4 model to get the interior textures back since the one used in the mod was so compressed you got green bits everywhere:
So from this:
XgPLNAY.png

To this:
4zegjkf.png


The mod is still not really great but in case someone else wants to improve this further I wanted to give an improved base
jOcRDQ5.png

9UpAI7k.png


https://mega.nz/file/E4hUzbwC#UkLxU7dp3OuOoWE83REVl9Hhb6yy8y3c2pjLI8y1r0Y
As I wrote before, you should delete your previous one before downloading this one, I didn't touch physics
There's something weird going on either with my CM/CSP or with this car's shaders.
I was trying to darken the trim on the steering wheel (which looked white in my car, instead of silver) and stop the internal plastic from turning sandy beige in direct sun.
ksAmbient made NO difference to the trim (even with a value of zero, which should look black, it still looked white) and ksDiffuse made no difference to the sun bleaching, again with a tiny value of 0.001 or something. Any idea what's going on? The shader values are already very low compared to Kunos pipeline recommendations, no doubt due to the AG source files, but it seems like shader adjustments are having no effect whatsoever.
Like I said, might be an issue with my CM or CSP.

Edit: a picture would probably help:

Screenshot_ag_mitsubishi_lancer_evox_gsr_fq-360_trcb_curvelo_30-9-120-13-58-20.jpg
 
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I made a csp config for interior plastic so you have to adjust it from the ext_config, not from shader values. That white part is like that because it isn't detached from the rest of the plastic stuff. It should be detached and get a different material and I honestly spent too much time on that thing and couldn't bother doing that. Best way is detaching that part and set a metallic or chrome shader for it, now it's set as plastic and linked to other plastic parts
Aha! Thanks, that explains it.
I thought I was going mad as other cars weren't affected.
So if I delete the config I can adjust the shaders in the normal CM Showroom way? There seems to be more control in CM Showroom than in the config (and I'm not really sure how the config parameters relate to ksAmbient, ksDiffuse, ksSpecular etc.)
 
Aha! Thanks, that explains it.
I thought I was going mad as other cars weren't affected.
So if I delete the config I can adjust the shaders in the normal CM Showroom way? There seems to be more control in CM Showroom than in the config (and I'm not really sure how the config parameters relate to ksAmbient, ksDiffuse, ksSpecular etc.)

I kept the car paint bits and deleted the second half of the config (that related to the plastic materials) and already it looks a lot better to my eyes with the default values. Grey trim on the steering wheel is back and that weird beige direct sunlight effect has gone.

Screenshot_ag_mitsubishi_lancer_evox_gsr_fq-360_actk_albi_2006_30-9-120-14-14-45.jpg


I'll have a further tweak to lighten the cockpit a little but I love your new interior textures. Much better with that added detail.
 
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FK8 Civic Type R - Production Version based on the FK8 Type R posted by @JakubP a while ago...

An attempt to bring the modified FK8 closer to its Production Car settings, this is a learning process so forgive my mistakes... This will overwrite the original car, as I don't know how to make a new one :dunce: Tyres are probably the biggest change, out with the slicks and in with some road car tyres. Hypercar Road are the most fun, the front grip levels allow the rear to be manipulated quite nicely, Street is probably feel the most real. Anyway the choice is yours.

Good Stuff
Wheel base corrected 2699
Front track corrected 1584
Rear track corrected 1602
Rim Offset changed to 0.06 (it is a plus 60 offset IRL not sure if this value is correct).
Steering ratio adjusted to 11.72:1
Turns lock to Lock adjusted to 2.11
Gearing Adjusted to fit real car.
Rear ARB rate adjusted to fit real car (721ft/lbs).
Wheel rates adjusted to fit real car (Motion ratio 1 front 0.746 rear - Spring rates 4.7kg/mm Front / 4.2Kg/mm rear).
Caster adjusted to 8 degrees. Thanks @evosaurusx
Camber adjusted to fit real car approx 1.33 front / 1.5 rear. Barcelona used as a flat pad to check. (need to reduce setup ranges to fit real windows).
Toe adjusted to fit real car approx 0 front 0.08 rear (need to reduce setup ranges to fit real windows).
Tyres changed to 245/25/20 from Porsche 911 Carrera Fronts (Street/Semi Slick) Lamborghini Huracan Performante Fronts (Hypercar Road).

Data from CivicX forums / Honda / HKS

Bad stuff
I really don't know what I am doing so may have completely borked the car :embarrassed:
Tyre size is still not spot on should be 245/30/20.
Tyre Pressures!? Real car 35Psi front / 33 Psi rear ~220km/h // 41Psi front / 33 Psi Rear 220km/h~
Front ARB rate need to be calculated, I know it is hollow 29mm diameter but no other measurements (yet).
Dampers!?
Ride height!?
Electronics!? The game shows ABS and TCS switched off in the setup screens, not really sure what is working and what isn't.
FFB doesn't really tell you much, especially when understeer creeps in.
Some horrid chrome interior textures need to go.
Sounds - The backfire needs to go this car does not pop and crackle from the factory :(



[edit]Link updated to new car version.[/edit]

hopefully the link works!
 
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This will overwrite the original car, as I don't know how to make a new one

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...eral-discussion.307899/page-360#post-12781396 :)

Code:
when you wanna make a new folder for a car you need to do the following
copy the full car folder
maybe paste it onto the desktop (so you can keep the old one)
rename the folder
copy the folder name!!!
rename all KN5s with the old name with the new one.
go into the data folder, LODS.ini and rename the car there
go into the main SFX folder, rename the bank file and rename everything that you see with the old name in the GUID file!

The most long-winded bit is renaming all the references in the bank file, but a much easier way is just to create the new car then do an audio swap with the original car. Voila! The original sound is restored.
 
The most long-winded bit is renaming all the references in the bank file, but a much easier way is just to create the new car then do an audio swap with the original car. Voila! The original sound is restored.

Quickest way to do this is open GUIDS.txt in Notepad++ and press ctrl+H (replace command) then type in the filenames and "Replace All"
Then press ctrl+S to save. Takes 30 seconds or so.
I'm not sure you can open the BANK file or at least I haven't found a way to do so
 
There seems to be more control in CM Showroom than in the config (and I'm not really sure how the config parameters relate to ksAmbient, ksDiffuse, ksSpecular etc.)

exactly like in the showroom
instead of adjusting the kn5 (isAdditive=2.0) in CM, you adjust a shader replacement in ext_config.ini

exactly how I did the F1-1993 from SD without touching kn5

==
[INCLUDE: common/materials_carpaint.ini]
CarPaintMaterial = WCCARBODY
CarPaintVersionAware = 2
[Material_CarPaint_Solid]
PROP_0=isAdditive, 2 <---- same as CM showroom
==

or, like in a track ext_config (exactly the same for cars)
==
[SHADER_REPLACEMENT_...]
ACTIVE = 1
DESCRIPTION = overall darker
MATERIALS =WCCARBODY <--- car body/track material
PROP_... = ksAmbient, 0.4 <--- shader,shader value
PROP_... = ksDiffuse, 0.3 <--- shader,shader value
==
its actually much more versatile as you can also override things like transparent or make a material double-sided
 
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Dude, I really can't be bothered to jump through hoops to download one or 2 tracks from you - it's cool. I can accept that you just don't want people to join your forum and I go back to my original comment of sharing your tracks here with a link for those of us that are foreign. I honestly have no idea why it's so difficult for you to want people to join your forum and then you ban them for not being French.

It's cool, I'm over it now

Maybe, after the failed registration, a cookie lingering in your browser is preventing the further attempts to access the public area?
 
Maybe, after the failed registration, a cookie lingering in your browser is preventing the further attempts to access the public area?

It's cool, I'm all good today and not actually bothered anymore as most of his track "conversions" end up getting deleted anyways. I just wanted Machwerk to be a good one as it was a nostalgic track for me but alas it was not meant to be lol.

Moving on as no point filling this place up with any more rubbish
 
FK8 Civic Type R - Production Version based on the FK8 Type R posted by @JakubP a while ago...

hopefully the link works!
Thanks for this gotta try it I didnt like last version at all understeer too strong FFB etc...
When testing FWD Hondas I always drive Norms FK2 I love how he is done that car.Maybe you should compare FK8 to that.
 
Guys I have a little problem with the headlights of some retro cars: they are white instead of the characteristic halogen white/yellow... any tip from this great community?
For example the headlights of the F40 are completely white... even on the old Group C cars
 
Thanks for this gotta try it I didnt like last version at all understeer too strong FFB etc...
When testing FWD Hondas I always drive Norms FK2 I love how he is done that car.Maybe you should compare FK8 to that.

The force feedback will be strong still as I haven't figured out where to change it, as @Masscot told me, if you have a numpad the plus / minus keys can be used to adjust FFB strength. ;)

I have driven the FK2, it has a bit too much oversteer for my taste, well at Cadwell anyway.
 
FK8 Civic Type R - Production Version based on the FK8 Type R posted by @JakubP a while ago...

An attempt to bring the modified FK8 closer to its Production Car settings, this is a learning process so forgive my mistakes... This will overwrite the original car, as I don't know how to make a new one :dunce: Tyres are probably the biggest change, out with the slicks and in with some road car tyres. Hypercar Road are the most fun, the front grip levels allow the rear to be manipulated quite nicely, Street is probably feel the most real. Anyway the choice is yours.

Good Stuff
Wheel base corrected 2699
Front track corrected 1584
Rear track corrected 1602
Rim Offset changed to 0.06 (it is a plus 60 offset IRL not sure if this value is correct).
Steering ratio adjusted to 11.72:1
Turns lock to Lock adjusted to 2.11
Gearing Adjusted to fit real car.
Rear ARB rate adjusted to fit real car (721ft/lbs).
Wheel rates adjusted to fit real car (Motion ratio 1 front 0.746 rear - Spring rates 4.7kg/mm Front / 4.2Kg/mm rear).
Caster adjusted to 8 degrees. Thanks @evosaurusx
Camber adjusted to fit real car approx 1.33 front / 1.5 rear. Barcelona used as a flat pad to check. (need to reduce setup ranges to fit real windows).
Toe adjusted to fit real car approx 0 front 0.08 rear (need to reduce setup ranges to fit real windows).
Tyres changed to 245/25/20 from Porsche 911 Carrera Fronts (Street/Semi Slick) Lamborghini Huracan Performante Fronts (Hypercar Road).

Data from CivicX forums / Honda / HKS

Bad stuff
I really don't know what I am doing so may have completely borked the car :embarrassed:
Tyre size is still not spot on should be 245/30/20.
Tyre Pressures!? Real car 35Psi front / 33 Psi rear ~220km/h // 41Psi front / 33 Psi Rear 220km/h~
Front ARB rate need to be calculated, I know it is hollow 29mm diameter but no other measurements (yet).
Dampers!?
Ride height!?
Electronics!? The game shows ABS and TCS switched off in the setup screens, not really sure what is working and what isn't.
FFB doesn't really tell you much, especially when understeer creeps in.
Some horrid chrome interior textures need to go.
Sounds - The backfire needs to go this car does not pop and crackle from the factory :(

Here

hopefully the link works!


nope acces denied :s
 
Quickest way to do this is open GUIDS.txt in Notepad++ and press ctrl+H (replace command) then type in the filenames and "Replace All"
Then press ctrl+S to save. Takes 30 seconds or so.
I'm not sure you can open the BANK file or at least I haven't found a way to do so
Is that quicker than just using the 'replace sound' function though? Both are quick but yours seems slower. ;)
 
I actually had some free time to further uppdate the Evo X, now the chrome part on the steering wheel is detached and I put a working gps in it by detaching and remapping the screen
MS5oVPL.png

https://mega.nz/file/Aw4V1SqI#xCy2nUTAyawBLs5wPzd0ACWYh7EBqxiWgG7g0lfTta4
Link updated in the previous post too

Still not perfect as interiors aren't mapped and chrome looks a bit weird because of that, gps might also use a different resolution but my time was over
Fantastic! Looks so, so much better, Thanks for taking time to do this.
I'd actually just isolated the part of the interior_lod0.dds that controlled the steering wheel trim colour after a lot of trial-and-error (the little light grey square in the bottom right hand corner of the dds, in case anyone is interested) and was just about to post an update, but yours is 1000% better. Thanks again!
 
Is that quicker than just using the 'replace sound' function though? Both are quick but yours seems slower. ;)
I don't know but in a race to the finish you would probably beat me by a few tenths but it's another way to do it if you're a geek like me and have always done things this way. Muscle memory and all that ;)
 
Not turned into a new car but try that one, original post updated as well.
Will you eventually be releasing it as a new car? I don't want to overwrite the existing one so I can compare and contrast, which isn't possible if I just rename the old folder to preserve it so that yours doesn't overwrite it.
 
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