Gran Turismo 7 Custom Race thread

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I know to prefer Weak Boost for a better contest, but what are our self-nerfing policies in here? I’m inspired to ask as I haven’t reevaluated mine in a little while and saw today’s update brought a fix to splitscreen…guess I am a tiny bit hopeful the bug shared some DNA with that which slows AI cars to 95% throttle. Will check later or happily be told my upcoming question is no longer relevant!

If not, still a good way to compare notes with the most learned Custom Racers around. How (if at all) do you nerf YOUR car when racing the Custom Race AI?

My favorite has been ~92 on the power restrictor and shortening gears/lowering transmission top speed by 10 or 20 kph.

The shortened gears help offset the acceleration hit, keep you moving out of corners at a comparable pace to the AI. Daytona has been a little weird this week with its crazy straightaways, I’m closer to 94 on power restrictor with a smaller gear hit, car-dependent. Usually, for a new track, I run a few test laps and watch the replay to compare acceleration and top speed, adjust my tune accordingly.

I’ll add that I’ve found it important to keep two tune sheets - some default for the “AI” and a separate “User” sheet - only flipping to your own after loading up the race. Need to be mindful of flipping back to “AI” afterwards or that car will be sandbagging it next time…

***

Think I had a nicely dialed-in “Roar Before” with the above convention - eager to run a lengthier one this weekend!

 
Here is my IMSA WSC BoP/Championship spreadsheet if anyone wants a shortcut to replicating today’s Daytona (and beyond)!

Link to Spreadsheet


As was the case last year, I finished Daytona and was excited to jump into the next one, way before it actually arrives in March. Here’s my first look at my Sebring replacement - Dragon Trail Gardens Reverse! I published a longer Daytona run, too, but kind of boring and certainly lonely for the final 10min as I chased a runaway Corvette (whose resulting BoP nerf was already reflected in doc).



Was pleasantly surprised the Daytona BoP held up well. I plan to spend more time in the Gr.1/VGT (GTP) cars this month, to bring them into balance. I prefer driving the Gr.3 (GTD/Pro) cars and expect those to be more dialed-in at the moment. Also need to tidy up my Michelin Pilot Challenge grid but dragging my feet in the hopes the community cranks out more liveries for me ;)

One fix could be to run the LMP2s from the back, as they often jump up at the VERY beginning of the race and create issues with the GTP class - you’ll see something happened into Sebring turn 1/DTGR turn 3 right at the start…
 
Been a while since I have posted here, thought I would share how I spent my weekend before Christmas though

I ended up creating an entire race event using the custom races, with 6 different categories using the same track across the whole weekend. The 6 categories I had were Utes (Tundra & F150), Porsche Cup (992 GT3) a Touring Car Masters replica, a ‘legends’ race using the Alfa 155 and Merc 190 E, then to round out the schedule I had Development Series races using the Camaro, Mustang and finally finished the weekend with the final race of my V8 (plus the BMW M4) Touring Car Series, a gruelling 139 lap race around St Croix C. Started the race around 10am and finally reached the chequered flag at around 7pm completing 1500km of driving on my own. Only a couple of downfalls to the whole race which was the fuel economy of the other cars took a few cars well out of contention early and the rubberbanding at some points meant the fastest lap was 15 seconds faster than my best time in the race. I did manage to grab a few pics which I will share in here from the race but sadly the replay file was way too big to save (thought I cleared enough space! :banghead:)

I’m thinking that this might be the start of a Christmas Eve tradition.

Not too long after the final race, I was back to work updating my grids and creating many new liveries and building some new cars for this years batch of races. I’ve got a calendar of races planned out for 2024 and have essentially built an ecosystem of racing series to race across the year, ranging from a Red Bull Junior and Mini Challenge series, with the likes of Utes, Porsche Cup, Touring Car Masters and Development Series, all the way to what will be regarded the top series of V8’s which will now be a Camaro v Mustang series. On top of that I’ll also be adding a Formula series (SF23’s) and a GT3 series that will feature on the event schedules this year. Definitely looking forward to having a lot of fun with the custom races this year now that I have learned plenty of lessons and got the cars and settings fine tuned!


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I'm nearly done with my WEC grid, but I have a question: Can 2 cars from different classes have the same number?
 
Hey Y'all, I've got some questions about setting up competitive customs. I'm not really concerned with "make the most money" I am trying to replicate a GT3 "Season" with Daytona, Le Mans, Spa, Nurburgring as 24 hrs, Road America as Petit Le Mans 10 hours, and looking for a decent Sebring replacement for the 12 hour.
Also have Bathurst set up as a 12 hour.

I'm finding that BOP turned on doesn't really do much of anything and that all the AI starts on Race Hard no matter what I'm doing.

I'm setting up BOP on, all the settings that can be "Real" as Real, 1x fuel 1x tires, and by the time we're making our first stops I'm either handily in the lead to where I cycle back to the front no problem, or I'm so far ahead that stopping doesn't shuffle the order.

I'm also using Professional as the "difficulty", turned on all the penalties to "Strong" because me making mistakes is about the only way I'm going to lose the race.

Is there a way to get the AI using RS instead of RH because I know I'm beating them in the corners. I also know I can swap to RH I just don't want to.

If BOP and those kinds of settings isn't enough to make it a fair race is there a cheat sheet or something people are referencing to nerf themselves or do I have to figure that out for each circuit?

Thanks so much, I really appreciate any tips or tricks y'all want to share!
 
Hey Y'all, I've got some questions about setting up competitive customs. I'm not really concerned with "make the most money" I am trying to replicate a GT3 "Season" with Daytona, Le Mans, Spa, Nurburgring as 24 hrs, Road America as Petit Le Mans 10 hours, and looking for a decent Sebring replacement for the 12 hour.
Also have Bathurst set up as a 12 hour.

I'm finding that BOP turned on doesn't really do much of anything and that all the AI starts on Race Hard no matter what I'm doing.

I'm setting up BOP on, all the settings that can be "Real" as Real, 1x fuel 1x tires, and by the time we're making our first stops I'm either handily in the lead to where I cycle back to the front no problem, or I'm so far ahead that stopping doesn't shuffle the order.

I'm also using Professional as the "difficulty", turned on all the penalties to "Strong" because me making mistakes is about the only way I'm going to lose the race.

Is there a way to get the AI using RS instead of RH because I know I'm beating them in the corners. I also know I can swap to RH I just don't want to.

If BOP and those kinds of settings isn't enough to make it a fair race is there a cheat sheet or something people are referencing to nerf themselves or do I have to figure that out for each circuit?

Thanks so much, I really appreciate any tips or tricks y'all want to share!
If there are dry-wet-dry conditions in your race, the AI will switch to RS after wet-dry. There is no current way to assign compounds to AI.

On another note, this was the best race at Daytona I’ve had with the AI. I’d share the PSVR2 video, but I was moving my head so much drying with my mirrors. :lol: The plane landing on the last lap was too cool. Love this game.


If only the Superbird were as stable as the Super Bee and Charger R/T. I’ll revisit the Superbird after I run some longer races with the Super Bee, Charger, Mach 1, GTO and Boss 429.
About to do a 50 lap at Northern Isle with Super Bee+Charger set up and then a 50 Lap at Daytona. Just wish we could disable AI tyre smoke. A bit silly to see a trail of smoke from every car but my own.
 
Hey Y'all, I've got some questions about setting up competitive customs. I'm not really concerned with "make the most money" I am trying to replicate a GT3 "Season" with Daytona, Le Mans, Spa, Nurburgring as 24 hrs, Road America as Petit Le Mans 10 hours, and looking for a decent Sebring replacement for the 12 hour.
Also have Bathurst set up as a 12 hour.

I'm finding that BOP turned on doesn't really do much of anything and that all the AI starts on Race Hard no matter what I'm doing.

I'm setting up BOP on, all the settings that can be "Real" as Real, 1x fuel 1x tires, and by the time we're making our first stops I'm either handily in the lead to where I cycle back to the front no problem, or I'm so far ahead that stopping doesn't shuffle the order.

I'm also using Professional as the "difficulty", turned on all the penalties to "Strong" because me making mistakes is about the only way I'm going to lose the race.

Is there a way to get the AI using RS instead of RH because I know I'm beating them in the corners. I also know I can swap to RH I just don't want to.

If BOP and those kinds of settings isn't enough to make it a fair race is there a cheat sheet or something people are referencing to nerf themselves or do I have to figure that out for each circuit?

Thanks so much, I really appreciate any tips or tricks y'all want to share!
I have some commentary on making a fair contest vs the AI above -
Post in thread 'Gran Turismo 7 Custom Race thread'
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/gran-turismo-7-custom-race-thread.404820/post-14183212. I have another post just after this one that summarizes/captures the “what to do” on the front page of an embedded spreadsheet. You need to reduce your car’s power AFTER loading up a race, using Boost=Weak and likely BoP=off. I set my own BoP around power/weight ratio and iterative testing (have my Gr3s deeper in the spreadsheet document if useful).

As 05XR8 shared, you have to work within the game’s unwritten guidelines for tire usage. RH across the board is a safe default, though fair to note you can also use “the car’s default tire” if you get to racing non-Gr3 cars.

As you figure out the balance, and it only gets so good…AI isn’t going to be pressuring/battling you like a real driver…you may want to take off penalties on certain circuits, as the AI won’t get called on their faults. I have been keeping notes on car type/track combo and how the AI performs here. Take with a grain of salt:



I ALSO have an embedded video in another post on this page that shows a VR2 run of IMSA lookalikes (Gr3s, Gr1s) at “Sebring.” It is tough to match faithfully but I prefer Dragon Trail Gardens Reverse, as shown in my recording. I think Kyoto Yamagiwa Reverse has some similarities, too, but it’s a bit hilly for me. Shout if I neglected a better one!
 
Hey Y'all, I've got some questions about setting up competitive customs. I'm not really concerned with "make the most money" I am trying to replicate a GT3 "Season" ....
A few things I have found. BOP kills the race, you have to tune each care to be similar and turn BOP off (might need to turn the power on your car down a bit). I have good results with boost weak and off, depends on the cars. If you insist on using anything better than race hard tires you wont achieve anything fun. You will have to reduce your power to the point where the computer cars run away from you on the straights and the you kill them through the corners
 
50 laps at Northern Isle.
Running super high line will guarantee easy wins. Running the lower apron will be follow the car ahead until pit stops. That’s a fun way to keep the racing close in the pack from start to finish. Running middle of the circuit produces lots of bumping and getting passed by the AI.
High tyre wear is better than high fuel. Produced more of a mix.
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Daytona Daytona…. 50 laps.
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I only finished 16th because I messed up my refuelling and a bit of mayhem at the end. Had to pit last lap for splash n’ dash and lucky a few AI got caught out too.

Standing start P20. Ran at the back for the first 8 laps. Got a run to move up a couple places and ran high to stay out of trouble. Lap 10 this happens before the finish line.
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Then again into Turn 1. Spins me out and two cars behind mash into me.
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Took me the next 30 laps and day to night transition to see the back of the top 17 cars far ahead the distance. Had to pit for fuel even though fuel and tyres were set at 1x. I exit the pits with blue flags waving. I’m about to be lapped!!!
Barely hooked up with the leaders with 9 laps to go. They start pealing off a couple at a time for final pit stops. I’m staying with two of the leaders and wondering when the hell they’re pitting. My fuel is dropping real quick and with 3 to go the leaders pit. Two to go and cars are re-entering the circuit. However as mentioned above I misjudged my refuelling and had to stop on the penultimate lap.

I re-enter the circuit and there’s a pack coming. I’m running low out of the way to get my speed up and slot in behind the pack. This happens.
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Would love to exit the vehicle GTA style and give that #94 avatar an uppercut.
 
50 laps at Northern Isle.
Running super high line will guarantee easy wins. Running the lower apron will be follow the car ahead until pit stops. That’s a fun way to keep the racing close in the pack from start to finish. Running middle of the circuit produces lots of bumping and getting passed by the AI.
High tyre wear is better than high fuel. Produced more of a mix.
View attachment 1327053

Daytona Daytona…. 50 laps.
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I only finished 16th because I messed up my refuelling and a bit of mayhem at the end. Had to pit last lap for splash n’ dash and lucky a few AI got caught out too.

Standing start P20. Ran at the back for the first 8 laps. Got a run to move up a couple places and ran high to stay out of trouble. Lap 10 this happens before the finish line.
View attachment 1327056

Then again into Turn 1. Spins me out and two cars behind mash into me.
View attachment 1327057

Took me the next 30 laps and day to night transition to see the back of the top 17 cars far ahead the distance. Had to pit for fuel even though fuel and tyres were set at 1x. I exit the pits with blue flags waving. I’m about to be lapped!!!
Barely hooked up with the leaders with 9 laps to go. They start pealing off a couple at a time for final pit stops. I’m staying with two of the leaders and wondering when the hell they’re pitting. My fuel is dropping real quick and with 3 to go the leaders pit. Two to go and cars are re-entering the circuit. However as mentioned above I misjudged my refuelling and had to stop on the penultimate lap.

I re-enter the circuit and there’s a pack coming. I’m running low out of the way to get my speed up and slot in behind the pack. This happens.
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Would love to exit the vehicle GTA style and give that #94 avatar an uppercut.
I'd completely forgotten about Northern Isle. Thanks for the reminder and the set-up.
 
Ran some NASCAR grids at Northern Isle. I used Chargers, SuperBees, Superbirds, and GTO’s. All with 700pp LeMans tunes. Ran two 30-lappers, starting in the back. Got smoked both times. Ran some Vintage Car road races at The Glen. I used a mix of pre-65 cars in 10 lappers. I need more development time with those.
 
I have some commentary on making a fair contest vs the AI above -
Post in thread 'Gran Turismo 7 Custom Race thread'
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/gran-turismo-7-custom-race-thread.404820/post-14183212. I have another post just after this one that summarizes/captures the “what to do” on the front page of an embedded spreadsheet. You need to reduce your car’s power AFTER loading up a race, using Boost=Weak and likely BoP=off. I set my own BoP around power/weight ratio and iterative testing (have my Gr3s deeper in the spreadsheet document if useful).

As 05XR8 shared, you have to work within the game’s unwritten guidelines for tire usage. RH across the board is a safe default, though fair to note you can also use “the car’s default tire” if you get to racing non-Gr3 cars.

As you figure out the balance, and it only gets so good…AI isn’t going to be pressuring/battling you like a real driver…you may want to take off penalties on certain circuits, as the AI won’t get called on their faults. I have been keeping notes on car type/track combo and how the AI performs here. Take with a grain of salt:



I ALSO have an embedded video in another post on this page that shows a VR2 run of IMSA lookalikes (Gr3s, Gr1s) at “Sebring.” It is tough to match faithfully but I prefer Dragon Trail Gardens Reverse, as shown in my recording. I think Kyoto Yamagiwa Reverse has some similarities, too, but it’s a bit hilly for me. Shout if I neglected a better one!

my dude this is amazing, thank you very much! I've been tweaking and messing around with things at Le Mans and have gotten a pretty good balance where the leaders run away from me in a straight line but I can gain about 2.5-3.5 seconds on the leader between Arnage and the Start/Finish line and that's been making for a really fun event.
 
Two questions please.
1. When I set up a Custom race with cars from my garage, does the game use my very own cars? Do their mileage increase?

2. Is there a way to choose the tyres for these cars? I think that no matter what tyres have these cars, the AI makes the selection.
 
Two questions please.
1. When I set up a Custom race with cars from my garage, does the game use my very own cars? Do their mileage increase?

2. Is there a way to choose the tyres for these cars? I think that no matter what tyres have these cars, the AI makes the selection.
No, the AI using your garage cars doesn’t increase their mileage. Only the car you’re driving has its mileage increase.

Also the AI defaults to whatever tire compound the car came with when you bought it, and you cannot choose the tires the AI use. However the AI can use rain tires or snow and dirt tires without you needing to buy them first.
 
No, the AI using your garage cars doesn’t increase their mileage. Only the car you’re driving has its mileage increase.

Also the AI defaults to whatever tire compound the car came with when you bought it, and you cannot choose the tires the AI use. However the AI can use rain tires or snow and dirt tires without you needing to buy them first.
The bolded isn't completely true, I think race cars/Gr.# cars use Racing compounds regardless but you can make road cars use racing and sports tires, it just has to be the lowest grade compound such as Racing Hards as the AI doesn't use anything above that unless the cars already came with them. Ex. When I gave a Gr.3 1995 F1 GTR RMs it still used the RH tires. I think you can also make cars that come with comfort tires use Sports hards but I know for a fact the AI can use Racing Hards with them but the RH tires need to be applied, anything else such as RMs or RS tires will make them revert to the default.
 
Reading this thread, it seems the AI default to stock tires for the car which explains a lot on my end. I set up a trans am inspired race on road Atlanta. Gave them some advantage. Came in with like 40-80pp lower than all the cars. But I was running sports soft. No wonder I was walking away from them all. There’s always some kind of oversight with this game. Can’t select which tires the AI take? Really? Come on. I assumed they were driving what I had my cars tuned and setup to.

Glad I found the thread though, I was about to tune up a bunch of 1969 Fairlady 432z’s. Guess I will just paint them,mleqve them stock and use weak boost and figure out how much to detune my car if at all.
 
Reading this thread, it seems the AI default to stock tires for the car which explains a lot on my end. I set up a trans am inspired race on road Atlanta. Gave them some advantage. Came in with like 40-80pp lower than all the cars. But I was running sports soft. No wonder I was walking away from them all. There’s always some kind of oversight with this game. Can’t select which tires the AI take? Really? Come on. I assumed they were driving what I had my cars tuned and setup to.

Glad I found the thread though, I was about to tune up a bunch of 1969 Fairlady 432z’s. Guess I will just paint them,mleqve them stock and use weak boost and figure out how much to detune my car if at all.
As far I know you can select RHs for all cars in custom races(not just for race cars), but not any kind of sports tyres, unless that has been changed lately in an update...
 
As far I know you can select RHs for all cars in custom races(not just for race cars), but not any kind of sports tyres, unless that has been changed lately in an update...
Ugh why do they do this kind of stuff. But thanks, maybe I’ll tune them for RH, kind of unfortunate because I’ve got a fun tune for the 432. But it’s sport tires, I think it might be sports medium.
 
Ugh why do they do this kind of stuff. But thanks, maybe I’ll tune them for RH, kind of unfortunate because I’ve got a fun tune for the 432. But it’s sport tires, I think it might be sports medium.
In most of my custom grids I use RHs, but lately I started to use their default comfort tyres in one-make grids as long their PP stays below 550...I have this Renault 5 Turbo grid and a Alfa Romeo Giulia GT '67 grid and the comfort tyres are good enough...

Having said that, I definitly would love it, if we could decide wich tyres they use-because in most of my custom grids SHs or SMs would be my prefered choice...
 
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